i have a 1995 E320 (W124). The telescoping steering wheel on the car is not working. I do not feel or hear any movement when I try to operate with the switch. Please help.

check the fuse

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

I have the same problem on a 1994 E320, but no clue how to diagnose the problem. Any ideas what route I should take to hunt down the problem?
I opened the panel below the steering wheel. I was trying to take out the motor and see if it recieves any voltage or if it works at all by giving it power but it looks like it's going to be a whole day's worth of work to get it out.

By the way I am going to take apart the steering column if all else fails, does anyone have directions on how to take it out?

check fuse — remove and replace. Old fuses can look great on the outside but actually be really crappy when removed and inspected. Have a look at my pic in this post.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=90715&highlight=fuse

Then check these (in varying combos perhaps):
1 Door needs to be open (no key at first)
2 key in position 1
3 key in position 2
4 Motor running

Try 2-4 with 1

Check the 'convenience fuse' -- not sure where it is located on your model but was a source of several intermittent problems (due to burned up fuse noted in above post) on my 300E — dealer was no help

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

The steering column removal isn't too hard actually. (its been awhile since i've done this so this may not be 100% accurate - also, I was trying to retrofit a non-adjustable car with an adjustable column but only had the top half of the column --see pic--)

1. remove headlight switch and plastic trim on both sides of steering wheel
2. remove knee bolster/trim (a bunch of 8 or 10mm bolts under that plastic trim and on the bottom near the pedals)
3. remove the steering wheel (air bag first, then the 10mm hex key bolt -- don't forget to disconnect the battery before removing the air bag)
4. remove the cruise control sw. the combination sw. (turn signal/wiper) there are a few screws holding these in
5. now you should be able to remove the rest of the plastic trim so that you can see the top of the column
6. i believe there are two retaining bolts that do the majority of the column support (on the black piece in the picture shown)
7. you'll also have to unbolt the ingition lock -- this will come out with the column
8. then there are a few screws at the top of the column (sticking out in the pic)
9. double check to see if there is anything holding the spline portion of the column in <- like i said, i was working on a car without an adjustable column attempting to add one
10. with all this stuff removed you should be able to take the column out of the car and test the motor with a 12V source or read the voltage on the car with a multimeter


If you have any problems, take some pics and post them up here, I'm sure if I saw the process I'd remember what I did. I had never taken one out before and I didn't have any problems, its a pretty straightforward deal.

This photo album might help too - its from a guy adding an adjustable column to his 500e:

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=hakkinen&album_id=191832

Good luck!

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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC
In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE

Thanks skiier I'll take it apart and keep you posted. I wanna say it is not a fuse because it seems like in these cars when a fuse goes out a bunch of accessories stop working all together and this is just one component not working. Don't get me wrong though I wish every problem in the car could be fixed by replacing a fuse.

You should definitely inspect the fuses carefully (take each one out and look for cracks) before you go through the trouble of removing the column...

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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC
In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE

You know what? you're right but it wasn't a fuse. So I started taking apart the steering wheel and I couldn't get the giant hex key bolt out and I tried everything and after a while I stopped before a tool slips and I do some damage. As I was sitting all depressed and staring at the steering wheel I started fiddling with the switch and I noticed that it pops out without having to remove anything. So I popped it out and it turns out the contacts inside the switch were oxidized as a result of sparking when in use. I cleaned up the contacts carefully without grinding too much off and It's fixed now.
I love mercedes, almost everything can be refurbished in this car. Now if it was an american car or and audi or VW the dealer would charge me 200 bucks for a stupid switch after replacing my whole steering column for $1200 plus labor
This was a constant problem with the seat switches in my 190E to the point where I would almost do it as regular maintenance.

Thanks for all your help.

I discovered, today, that these can get stuck, and not extend fully, if retracted all the way into the dash. Turning the wheel to a different position will unstick it.

I observed this while going over a speed bump while the wheel was turned, and feeling a bit of a jump or jerk in the steering, which I assumed was the telescope mechanism coming unstuck. I gave it a try and the steering wheel extended fully.

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

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Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

13 years later THREAD REVIVE!

I was about to install a telescoping column in my w124 but I realized - I don't know how to connect it!

The question is: do I need the memory control unit?
Can I bypass it?
I have power source. Have two wires to the column motor. Have three wires from the column height switch.
I guess I'd need some kind of polarity inverter...

Thanks

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You’ll need something more like a power window switch or some relays like in a remote keyless entry retrofit.

Memory module might be easier if the car is prewired. I doubt it since IIRC the memory module is part of the driver seat.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Took the module from donor car. I will install it in the place of cruise amplifier, since I lack the actuator anyway. Thanks

Update: pre-wired everything out of the car and the switch only extends the column. Reversed polarity at the switch, still only extends the column...This means the control unit fails to reverse the polarity. I will test the motor directly at the battery later.
Maybe the control unit requires input from the 3 memory position wires from motor?

SUCCESS.

As I said, so I did.

Major issues: wiring. Had to go through ETM carefully and check every connection. Splice connectors don't always make contact.

Took me about 4 hours with some troubleshooting. Then I went to get the upper frame flange I forgot from the donor car...now I need the airbag, too because the steering wheel is old style, but better condition than my newer one.

FINALLY the wheel doesn't rub my legs and I don't have to stretch my arms to reach it.

PDF tutorial with pictures: https://docdro.id/6W11A4f