|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
86 300E - need help with several problems
My 86' 300E has several problems that I'd like to fix immediately but I don't know where to begin. I was hoping someone on this forum could guide me in the right direction.
1. Anti-lock brake light goes on intermittently and stays on when I start the engine. It'll happen about 50% of the time. Even though the anti-lock brake light is on, the brakes feel fine without any changes. I'm guessing a relay is going bad. What do you guys think? Note: I had all of the sensors and all the brake lines changed last year. I also had a new OVP relay installed about 6 months ago 2. I changed the driver side tie rod. I was able to tighten the outer nut, but the inner nut just won't tighten up (the bolt also turns, hence not allowing the nut to tighten). What should I do? Remove the nut and try again? (But if I do that, don't I need to get another new nut?) 3. Dash light to the instrument cluster is not working. I had the bulbs changed about a year ago. Should I have the bulbs changed again? What about the dimmer switch. How do I check if the dimmer switch is bad? 4. In the instrument cluster, the following items don't work (was working fine before I had the bulbs changed a year ago). RMP guage, clock, economy guage (I'm guessing the economy guage dysfunction is due to an unplugged vaccuum). Any help would be greatly appreciated. jrmd01@yahoo.com
__________________
JR 1986 Gold 300E 4Dr automatic |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
UPDATE
I took the car to a mechanic and he did the following to fix the problems stated in my original post.
1. changed the brake sensors and brake lines 2. Just kept tightening the bolt until it "locked" - impact wrench 3. Changed the 2 bulbs and socket 4. New ground wire did the trick. RPM and clock now works. (economy guage still not working - got to try to find the vaccum leak --- can someone give me advice on this problem?) Just wanted to share my experience....maybe it'll help someone save $$$$ if they are havin simlar problems.
__________________
JR 1986 Gold 300E 4Dr automatic |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I believe the vacuum line that goes to the economy gauge is somewhere near the brake fluid reservoir. But did you check to see if the vacuum line was attached to the back of the instrument cluster?
__________________
1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible 1994 420E - SOLD 1986 300E - SOLD, what a car 609 Certified |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I'll check it sometime next time the cluster comes out
I'll check the vaccum connection next time the instrument cluster comes out. Right now everything works except the economy guage. So I'll leave it alone.
The first time I had the instrument cluster removed (just to change 1 light bulb), lots of things went wrong....both cluster lights burnt out, RPM guage stop working, and the clock stop working. I did more damage than good removing the cluster. Unless this vaccum leak is affecting the performance of my car, I can live without the economy guage. Thanks for the advice though.
__________________
JR 1986 Gold 300E 4Dr automatic |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
If the economy gauge is not connected, you have an active vacuum leak. Assuming the hose is not plugged, of course, but why would it be?
__________________
2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
When my eco gauge did not work it was unplugged at the cluster, and I could easily hear the vacuum leak while driving. That sucking was far more annoying than the working eco gauge.
__________________
David 1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Re: I'll check it sometime next time the cluster comes out
Quote:
I know it's a pain to yank that ground cable off and have to reset the radio just to replace a fuse, but you've already experienced what potential damage you can cause without even trying... ..some of these components ain't cheap!
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
Bookmarks |
|
|