In reading a lot of posts to the list, I've determined (at least I think so) that the "amp" for my cruise control system has croaked.
In reading a lot of the postss to the list, many of them relate to soldered connections having "gone bad" and recommend that the "amp" be removed from the car, the cover popped off and all of the soldered connections be looked at and re-soldered if needed.
Two questions -
1) Can I remove the "amp" from the car and still drive it without causing any ill effects to the car or any safety issues for me?
2) What exactly should I be looking for as far as a "bad solder joint"?

Thanks in advance for your help. I figure that if the thing has already "croaked" I won't hurt it any more if I pop the cover off and look at it. I know that it will be sent to a vendor (probably PartsShop on this board) as a "core", but if I can "find" something that is physically wrong then maybe I've saved myself between $200 and $300.

I could use the $$ to buy some sheepskin seat covers.... Yeah! That's the ticket!




------------------
Jay Yambrovich
1989 300 E
1992 190-E 2.3

The cruise control amplifier can be removed w/o affecting the driveability of your car. I would also not rule out the actuator. This is located on the driver side of the block below the intake manifold. "Cold soldered" joints are not always easily visible to the naked eye. Look for signs of corrosion, or "tracking", or any obvious breaks in the conductive traces on the PC board. The actuator hangs out in the weather, and can be the victim of excessive engine washing or moisture. From what I have seen here, it seems the amplifier is the most common component to fail. Do a search, you'll find a number of posts about this system. Good Luck..

------------------
Jeff L
1987 300e
1989 300e
1987 BMW 325

Jeff / list: More clarification -
The cruise control worked fine for the first week and a half after I bought the car, then one time when I went to set the speed, it accelerated about 2 mph, then dropped the speed off (cruise control disengaged). This happened a few more times over the next week and since then (about 4 weeks now) it hasn't done anything at all when I try to engage the cruise control or set the speed.

You all are great, thanks a bunch.

P.S. I just bought a TopSider oil suction rig and I LOVE IT!! I've done an oil change on both our M-B vehicles in the past 24 hours and what a breeze it is to use. I've already talked with a couple of friends who are also going to buy one.



------------------
Jay Yambrovich
1989 300 E
1992 190-E 2.3

Jeff:
I re-read your reply to my first posting regarding the actuator. I DID clean the engine a couple of times (some minor layers of crudding in the "bay") and used the garden hose to spray off the cleaning solution. Additionally, we've had a couple of rain storms... Moisture, yes. Besides, I live near the CA. coast (Pacific ocean is less than 2 miles from the house "as the crow flies"...)

How I determine which unit has gone bad? Any suggestions on how to trouble-shoot this? I'm not an electrical engineer so don't start with the VOM analysis (I have one but don't really know how to use it much).


------------------
Jay Yambrovich
1989 300 E
1992 190-E 2.3

Jay, how much fun do you want to have?? The CC amp is behind the kick panel on the drivers side of the car. You have to remove the lower dash fascia, parking brake release and, if I am not mistaken the front of the headlight switch. (not sure).. The actuator is under the intake. Remove the lower splash shield (under the engine), disconnect the linkage from the the throttle, follow the connector wiring and disconnect that, remove the retainer screws from the mounting bushings and take it out. Removal of either of or both will not affect your car. If you like to explore, check each component. Most of the time, it's one or the other. Rarely, the switch fails..

------------------
Jeff L
1987 300e
1989 300e
1987 BMW 325