I've been storing cars including my 190 for six to twelve months for over ten years.

The clock does NOT run on fresh oil in the crankcase, and I consider fresh oil a must. The clock DOES run on brake fluid and antifreeze, so these fluids should not expire prior to the end of storage. I have never used a fuel stabilizer, but fill the fuel tank to prevent condesation. The colder the storage temperature, the less chance of fuel degradation. Chemical oxidation rates increase/decrease exponentially with temperature. I live in Southern CA and the mild to warm temperatures have not caused degradation of the fuel for up to a year. None of my cars have ever had any fuel system problems.

Increase tire air pressure to 36-40 psi, but do not exceed the placarded maximum cold air pressure on the tire sidewall. For most high speed rated tires, it is 44 psi.

Remove the battery, store it in above freezing temps if at all possible, and charge it once a month.

I always wash the car and dust/vacuum the interior prior to storage and use a breathable car cover.

The most important storage prep task is to protect the car from rodents. I can't tell you how many people have told me they don't have mice and lived to regret that statement. I place a traps inside each tire and poison bars in the engine compartment, interior, and trunk.

When you're ready to drive it again, install a freshly charged battery, remove the traps/bait, do a general vehicle inspection including checking for leaks and fluid levels, set tire pressure at your normal settings, and crank it up. Modern fuel injected cars start right up as if they've only been sitting for a couple of days rather than several months.

Duke