Has anyone removed the entire dash or parts of the dash of a C280?

I discovered a vacuum leak in at least one of the climate control vacuum actuators and it looks like I can't remove it without tearing out more of the dash.

The glove compartment and footwell area is removed at this point.

I may be able to access it if I remove the heating (fan?) unit above the footwell as the actuator sits above it.

If anyone can tell me how to remove this or the dash, I'd really appreciate it. I already tore the car apart from the windshield area in the engine bay trying to access it. No luck.

Do you have fax number? I will fax that repair info.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks, M.B. Doc. I got your fax.

One of the vacuum actuators that is dead is for the fresh air flap which sits above the heater/fan unit behind the glove box.

Is dropping that unit a procedure to use if you wanted to replace that actuator only? Can you provide me with these instructions?

Or what is the procedure you would use in dealing with the actuators (This one and others)?

Thanks for your help.

The fresh air(recric) vacuum element is the MOST common failure! Very simple to replace with dash removed!!
MB number 202-800-19-75, list is $44.50

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks! Easy to replace.....AFTER the dash is removed. Gotcha! :p

I have to do the same thing on my car and are you sure there is no way to do it without removing the whole dash?! Either way, can someone give me some instructions on removing omg the whole dash! Thanks.

Unfortunately, I don't have all the diagrams any more. But maybe MB Doc does (By the way, Thanks MB DOC for whatever you sent, I don't remember specifically what it was, but everything helped). Also unfortunately, removing the dash was the ONLY way to reach most of the vacuum actuators. Once removed, it is relatively easy to replace them. I replaced all of them (around $200) because I didn't want to go back and do this job again. If you have the diagrams, it is a long but relatively straightforward job. It took me most of the afternoon. Just do it step by step. I took pictures with my digital camera along the way. Didn't really need them in putting it back together, though. It's pretty intuitive. Removing the steering wheel and air bag was one of the scarier things to do, but do searches on this site and you'll understand what you need to do. Don't turn the ignition switch while the airbag is disconnected!!! You will get an SRS light. On the positive note, you don't have to be a MB trained assemblyworker to get a squeek free dash. My dash is as tight as ever. By the way, I'm not necessarily recomending anyone do this. This is definitely a do at your own risk. It's a sense of accomplishment, obviously, IF you get the results you want. Best of luck.

Can you post the pictures of your dash removal?

thanks,
Gene

__________________
GeneN
Charlotte, NC
1994 C280 135K

Having done a dash removal on a W201 this past summer, I can offer some general suggestions:

1) Go slow and give yourself plenty of time. For a "first time" DIY home garage job, it's easily a whole weekend job to R&R a dash. It's also important to go slowly since it is very easy to scrape, ding, and otherwise injure other interior parts during this process.

2) Although MB's wiring and vaccum connections are very well thought out and usually have unique fasteners, use a digital camera or very good notes to ID connectors, harness locations and details. Don't trust memory.

3) Before undertaking the job, consider everything else you might want to do in there. Change the panel light bulbs? Add an upgrade? How's the heater core?

4) Plastic bags with permanent marker to keep track of parts.

To give you an idea and so no one gets a heart attack.

Well, here is an update! All works well and by fixing the vacuum leak I had the car now runs better all around. I guess just that slight leak of a hose disconnected really starved the rest of the system of its needed vacuum. Tranny shifts a hair smoother, idle is smoother although still not as perfect as I want, heater controls all work much better and my heater valve actually closes now. That and I learned an awefull lot of how the HVAC system works since I could see all of it and actually did a test of it before putting the dash back in. No need on the 190 to remove the airbag and steering wheel. Although I am sure it would have been a hair easier to remove and re-install the dash it still slid by!

__________________
~Jamie
_________________
2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Am I to understand by this post that I can r&r the dash and components underneath in my C280 in a day or less?sounds great.My steering wheel leather looks like s**t anyhow and I want to change it, too.My vacuum pump in the trunk is cycling like crazy and my center vents dont blow heat or a/c either.Does anyone know which tube to clamp/plug under the hood to save the pump until I can make repairs?This site has helped save me a ton of loot already,thanx,folks!!