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  #1  
Old 01-08-2004, 02:18 PM
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Removing Dash

Has anyone removed the entire dash or parts of the dash of a C280?

I discovered a vacuum leak in at least one of the climate control vacuum actuators and it looks like I can't remove it without tearing out more of the dash.

The glove compartment and footwell area is removed at this point.

I may be able to access it if I remove the heating (fan?) unit above the footwell as the actuator sits above it.

If anyone can tell me how to remove this or the dash, I'd really appreciate it. I already tore the car apart from the windshield area in the engine bay trying to access it. No luck.

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  #2  
Old 01-08-2004, 05:38 PM
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Do you have fax number? I will fax that repair info.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2004, 11:24 AM
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Thanks, M.B. Doc. I got your fax.

One of the vacuum actuators that is dead is for the fresh air flap which sits above the heater/fan unit behind the glove box.

Is dropping that unit a procedure to use if you wanted to replace that actuator only? Can you provide me with these instructions?

Or what is the procedure you would use in dealing with the actuators (This one and others)?

Thanks for your help.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2004, 12:50 PM
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The fresh air(recric) vacuum element is the MOST common failure! Very simple to replace with dash removed!!
MB number 202-800-19-75, list is $44.50
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2004, 01:45 PM
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Thanks! Easy to replace.....AFTER the dash is removed. Gotcha! :p
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  #6  
Old 09-28-2004, 08:41 PM
Joeyskates
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The whole dash?!!

I have to do the same thing on my car and are you sure there is no way to do it without removing the whole dash?! Either way, can someone give me some instructions on removing omg the whole dash! Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 09-28-2004, 09:08 PM
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Unfortunately, I don't have all the diagrams any more. But maybe MB Doc does (By the way, Thanks MB DOC for whatever you sent, I don't remember specifically what it was, but everything helped). Also unfortunately, removing the dash was the ONLY way to reach most of the vacuum actuators. Once removed, it is relatively easy to replace them. I replaced all of them (around $200) because I didn't want to go back and do this job again. If you have the diagrams, it is a long but relatively straightforward job. It took me most of the afternoon. Just do it step by step. I took pictures with my digital camera along the way. Didn't really need them in putting it back together, though. It's pretty intuitive. Removing the steering wheel and air bag was one of the scarier things to do, but do searches on this site and you'll understand what you need to do. Don't turn the ignition switch while the airbag is disconnected!!! You will get an SRS light. On the positive note, you don't have to be a MB trained assemblyworker to get a squeek free dash. My dash is as tight as ever. By the way, I'm not necessarily recomending anyone do this. This is definitely a do at your own risk. It's a sense of accomplishment, obviously, IF you get the results you want. Best of luck.
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  #8  
Old 09-29-2004, 07:22 AM
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Dash Removal

Can you post the pictures of your dash removal?

thanks,
Gene
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  #9  
Old 09-29-2004, 01:46 PM
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Having done a dash removal on a W201 this past summer, I can offer some general suggestions:

1) Go slow and give yourself plenty of time. For a "first time" DIY home garage job, it's easily a whole weekend job to R&R a dash. It's also important to go slowly since it is very easy to scrape, ding, and otherwise injure other interior parts during this process.

2) Although MB's wiring and vaccum connections are very well thought out and usually have unique fasteners, use a digital camera or very good notes to ID connectors, harness locations and details. Don't trust memory.

3) Before undertaking the job, consider everything else you might want to do in there. Change the panel light bulbs? Add an upgrade? How's the heater core?

4) Plastic bags with permanent marker to keep track of parts.
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  #10  
Old 09-29-2004, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTI
Having done a dash removal on a W201 this past summer, I can offer some general suggestions:

1) Go slow and give yourself plenty of time. For a "first time" DIY home garage job, it's easily a whole weekend job to R&R a dash. It's also important to go slowly since it is very easy to scrape, ding, and otherwise injure other interior parts during this process.

2) Although MB's wiring and vaccum connections are very well thought out and usually have unique fasteners, use a digital camera or very good notes to ID connectors, harness locations and details. Don't trust memory.

3) Before undertaking the job, consider everything else you might want to do in there. Change the panel light bulbs? Add an upgrade? How's the heater core?

4) Plastic bags with permanent marker to keep track of parts.
MTI, any suggestions on removing the dash in the W201. I need to R&R for heater core replacement. Mine exploded last week. I know you need to remove the speakers and the glove box and the gauges and the A pillar moldings and of course the lower dash panels exposing the bottom. But is there anything else after all that? How do you detach the center portion with the radio and heater controls? Or does it not come apart that way? I will be checking all vacuum elements and hoses and connections while in there but the main reason is for the heater core.
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  #11  
Old 09-29-2004, 03:18 PM
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In the W201, you can leave the steering wheel and steering column in place. You will need to remove the center console and should remove or loosen the shifter console section. The center console is fastened at the top, with two screws at the corners of the center vent frame. Then there are fasteners in the footwell on either side. The shifter console is held in place with a bolt under the back seat's ashtray. Removing the center vent frame requires removing the hex bolt that connects the open/close lever to the vent door. then you can access the switches (and the fiber optic light cables) to the switches on the vent frame. At the end, you'll end up with something like this

http://www.190revolution.net/prem/mti/Anatomy/Dash%20Removed.JPG

Disregard the pulled/cut vaccum lines, this was a demolition job, not a R&R
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  #12  
Old 09-29-2004, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTI
In the W201, you can leave the steering wheel and steering column in place. You will need to remove the center console and should remove or loosen the shifter console section. The center console is fastened at the top, with two screws at the corners of the center vent frame. Then there are fasteners in the footwell on either side. The shifter console is held in place with a bolt under the back seat's ashtray. Removing the center vent frame requires removing the hex bolt that connects the open/close lever to the vent door. then you can access the switches (and the fiber optic light cables) to the switches on the vent frame. At the end, you'll end up with something like this

http://www.190revolution.net/prem/mti/Anatomy/Dash%20Removed.JPG

Disregard the pulled/cut vaccum lines, this was a demolition job, not a R&R
Thanks MTI! Yeah I know about how to get all the vents and stuff out. I just was not sure of the center section on how to actually remove it. Thanks for the input on the steering wheel though as I was going to attempt to remove that but will save time by not needing too. Where are all the bolts for the dash itself and about how many?
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1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....
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  #13  
Old 09-29-2004, 04:23 PM
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MTI,

Quick question for you! How does the air box come apart? Can you by any chance slide the heater core out the side of the air box? It almost looks like you can from that picture!
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2004, 05:30 PM
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There aren't many bolts holding the very light dash to the firewall and they are located at the to edge, near the bottom of the windshield. The heater core is accessed by removing the black plastic shroud (unbolting) in front of it.
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  #15  
Old 09-30-2004, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTI
There aren't many bolts holding the very light dash to the firewall and they are located at the to edge, near the bottom of the windshield. The heater core is accessed by removing the black plastic shroud (unbolting) in front of it.

Thanks again MTI...

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1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....
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