Front Brake Caliper Bolts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

git0 · #1 01-09-2004, 01:07 AM

Hi Guys,

First time DIY repairs. Last weekend I replaced my shocks and
struts (150,000 miles) - but admit to cheating as I used the Klann
spring compressor. They worked great and the only hard part of
the job were the stubborn bolts and getting the rear shocks into the mounting holes. But overall not a bad job - tppk my time.

Brake Question - this weekend I am replacing the front brakes, pads and rotors. The rotors have a decent lip on them and long overdue.

Can the caliper bolts be reused or do they need to be replaced? I only purchased the rotors, pads, sensors and paste.

Also, after I install the new rotors, do I need to clean the surface of the rotors with a brake cleaner spray.

Thanks for the help.

Jim

92 300E (150,000 miles)

Duke2.6 · #2 01-09-2004, 01:35 AM

Clean up the bolts and use a dab of blue Loctite on them. Cleaning new brake rotor friction surfaces is a good idea in case they have some sort of rust preservative on them.

Duke

wbain5280 · #3 01-09-2004, 03:22 AM

I just replaced the front rotors on my 300SE. I sprayed brake cleaner on the rotors to get the grease off. Then I put the caliper back on. Looks like I should get some blue Locktite and put some on my caliper bolts.

I'm not driving the car right now because I'm in the middle of doing a water pump replacement on it. Is that ever a PITA!!!

#4 01-09-2004, 03:27 AM

Jim,
I don't know if you have seen this link. Great info here.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads

haasman · #5 01-09-2004, 09:45 AM

When cleaning the brake rotor make sure that is absolutely clean. Spray some brake cleaner on a paper towel and rotate the rotor until nothing comes off.

Even a small about of contamination (rust preservative) can spread all over the surface(s) and cause the rotor to pulse after a good heating. If in doubt, do it again. Don't ask how I know this ...

Use a VERY light amount of anti-sieze on the rotor/hub mating surface and the next time it will be easy to remove the rotor.

Clean the channels where the pads fit in the calipers. Don't forget to put a light amount of brake paste on the edge of the pads as well. Avoid the friction surfaces at all costs for obvious reasons.

Take it easy on the new pads/rotors for the first fifty or so miles to allow the two to match properly. You can use them of course, just avoid hard braking.

An old tech told me to after coming to a full stop with hard braking as in waiting for a stop light, to inch forward to expose a new section of the rotor to avoid heat saturation in one spot.

Haasman

csnow · #6 01-09-2004, 09:49 AM

The floating caliper bolts generally can be cleaned up and relubed.

With a clean and lube each time, they should last the life of the car.

Make sure the rubber boots are not torn.

I use silicone grease (thick grease, not spray!) on these. Works great.

Loctite is a good idea too.

Some rotors have protective coatings that do not need to be removed, but still be careful to clean off any wayward grease.

git0 · #7 01-09-2004, 10:29 AM

Thanks for all the advise guys. I was especially concerned with contaminating the rotors either with grease or rust. the job will start in the AM and with these and the shocks done I should be set for awhile.

Except for the the radio - intend to putin an Alpine and infinity kappas in.

Thanks again.

M.G. · #8 01-09-2004, 03:04 PM

So many suggestions, yet you never stated what kind of MB it is. Awh heck, its just a brake job and they are all the same. here's an interesting fact for you do-it-yourselfers playing auto mechanic. If you repair something incorrectly and cause an auto accident THE LIABILITY FALLS ON YOUR LAP. Have fun.

git0 · #9 01-09-2004, 08:13 PM

Thanks MG for your inpt but I believ that I put the year, model and miileage right after my signature.

" Thanks for the help.

Jim

92 300E (150,000 miles)'

You are right, some of us are playing auto mechanic but refer to ourselfs as enthusiasts. I went to college with a guy from Orlando who put himself throug school in the 70s by buying older benz's with blown engines but otherwise great condiion. He rebuilt the engines during the summer and then sold them for a profit to pay for school. I have loved the engieering of the cars since then.

I think most of us differentiate between those repairs we can do with the helpful advise others and those repair best left to the shops. I personally don't think that all repairs need to go to the shop. We are fortunate that many on the site are willing to share their vast experience with those of us that are learning.

I think I was prudent in having taken the viewpoint that the worst scenario could happen and thus used the Klann compressors when working on the suspension. The repairs came out just fine and the ride is like new.

I personally appreciate the advise of those willing to contribute their time.

#10 01-10-2004, 03:11 AM

MG,

Quote:If you repair something incorrectly and cause an auto accident THE LIABILITY FALLS ON YOUR LAP. Have fun.

So does this mean that you will not dispense any repair info.

Your statement is true for anyone including mechanics, but you have to realize that most people on this board have higher than average intelligence, and can fix things right.

Anyone second that?

git0 · #11 01-11-2004, 01:11 AM

Thanks to every one for their assistance. It took me four hours but I am fine with this as it was my first brake job (included new rotors). I took real care and made sure the rotor was clean.

It was not bad job at all and really if you are just replacing the pad it would be a quick task.

Thanks again to those who helped.

Jim

I used PBR pad so I will monitor the brake dust and let you know how it compareswith the Texar pads.