The car has been running fine. Just went out to start the car and the engine cranks strong but does not start up. Battery is strong and the temp is mid-40's. Need help? Would a fuel pump go out so quickly? Perhaps a sensor?

Appreciate any advice on where to start.

There could be many a solutions to this one. I am not an expert but, does the car have an alarm system? On my wife's honda, if the alarm is not deactived correctly, the car will crank but never start.

Iggy

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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt.
1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife)
1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006
2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004)
1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold)
1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride)

I checked with the dealership and they said if it was a "security" issue the car would not even crank. I know it could be quite a few things but was wondering if there is a common problem that might be a good place to start.

Thanks for the reply.

I could be wrong (I could dig out a book to find out for sure) but I don't think a 93 300SL (or any other 93 Benz) has DAS at all. What I am saying is there is no anti-theft of the type that would prevent the car from starting, just the alarm system itself, not that it would be an easy car to hotwire or anything, but not like it is today.
Now this is going to sound way over-simplified, so sorry to mention it; are you sure the car has gas in the tank? I have seen numerous times where a car has been towed in for a no-start concern where it had just ran out of gas. Sometimes the gas gauge was bad, which made the owner think there was still gas in the tank.
One other thing is that I had a roadside call once on a car similar to this. The owner had pulled the battery out of the car for winter(instead of just disconnecting the negative post) and in the proces of either removing or reinstalling the battery, he "flipped" the fuse out of the fuel pump relay, which is located very close to the battery. You will see this relay along the inside of the fender near the battery, it's a small square green-colored relay, and a fuse plugs into the top of it, you'll see the indent and the 2 small slots the fuse plugs in to. You caould also check the fuse (if it's there) to make sure it isn't blown for some reason, I think it's a red 10 amp fuse, not sure on that.

Gilly

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Just got it out of the shop. It was the Ignition Switching Unit. My mechanic said out of 14 years of working on MB's he had only replaced 6 ISU's. Luckily I got to be number 7 and pay $1500 (P and L) for the privilige. It's still a sweet car.

Appreciate the help.

if the isu had quit, most likely it was killed by overamperage draws, i.e. old plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. the bigger the gaps, the more power required. all that extra umph the tired coil needed to fire the engine came from the icu. look carefully at the coil where it meets its mounting bracket. if you see white spots, the coil is bad. that happens 'cuz the plugs get left in too long and the gaps open up, which draws more amps and work on the wires, which then, there is more juice arcing through the cap from the rotor. i'd look at that stuff real close. good luck, chuck.