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#1
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Replacing my engine mounts
my engine mounts are very compressed and close to failure, so I thought its time for some preventative maintenance. Is this a DIY job? Do I have to hoist or jack up the engine in order to replace them.
I'd appreciate it if someone can walk me through the procedure. Thanks in advance.
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Steven 1989 260E (276K miles) 1995 E320 (50K miles) |
#2
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You will need a floor jack and a board under the oil pan and a 19 mm box end wrench, plus an 8mm hex driver.
Fairly easy except getting to the top bolt on the driver's side -- it's buried unde the intake and is a bear to get at with the mounts flat -- I had to jack the engine up a couple inches to get to it. Have a care not to drop the bottom bolt into the hole in the crossmember, it's a devil to get back out (I know, I did it). You must also remove the noise encapsulation 8mm socket. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Quote:
Iggy
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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. 2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt. 1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife) 1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006 2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004) 1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold) 1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride) |
#4
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Thank you
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Steven 1989 260E (276K miles) 1995 E320 (50K miles) |
#5
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I did it on mine was easy, but I agree with above mentioned.
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