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Old 07-30-2000, 09:53 PM
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Just finished the chain tensioner, rails, ect (everyones advise has been most helpful, thanks again). Now I need to fix a preexisting condition.

Checking the fuel pressure at the cold start line, its o.k.. But nothing is arriving at the plugs. Put in new plugs. Still look brand new and no smell of gas on them. This after cranking for a few minutes. Loosen a line at the fuel distributor...no gas escapes. Prior to this and the above mentioned work, the car would not idle.

I have heard that when the EHA (electro hydraulic actuator) go bad can cause strange symptoms. Does it make seen that I am seeing pressure in the cold start circuit but nothing in the main injectors? Where to look? As always.. Thanks

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Old 07-30-2000, 10:12 PM
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Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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Tinker, maybe I missed it, but which car are you talking about?

------------------
Jeff Lawrence
1987 300e
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
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Old 07-30-2000, 10:59 PM
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System pressure is necessary but has nothing to do with fuel coming out the injection lines.

While the EHA controls all forms of electronic mixture control, you are so far from proper basic mixture that electronic correction isn't the problem.

First thing to do is to remove one line and depress the air valve (while the fuel pump relay is bypassed). If fuel then rushes out you probably just have a basic mixture (set-up) problem. The basic mixture (to get the car going)is set as follow: by-pass fuel pump relay to get system pressure, if no fuel is coming from fuel distributor then adjust mixture control clockwise until fuel does flow (with plate at normal rest position) and then back it off till it just stops. Remember its logical for no fuel to be flowing to injectors if there is no air flow; the slightest deflection of the plate should bring fuel movement.
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Old 07-31-2000, 12:59 AM
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Jeff, This is on a 87 190 16V.
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Old 08-01-2000, 10:57 PM
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Well I managed to get it to start. Jumped the fuel relay and pushed the air sensor down and now I have fuel, although the color was not encouraging. Kind of rusty looking initally then it cleaned up. However, it still refuses to idle. Attempt to hold it at a steady idle and it will surge. Will not idle by itself. I am going through the test procedures in the C.D. Got to the throttle valve switch test. Iam testing the #1 (idle contact)and #2 (common) for continuity. #1 is this correct? Or should I test to ground? So far it does not pass what is stated in the C.D. Is the throttle valve swith a problem in these cars? Has anyone replaced one before. Should I look at something else? As always, all advise is welcomed. Tinker

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