99 E300 TD cuts out Ph II

[TMAllison]

OK....replaced all fuel lines. 1 hour topside job.

Installed a new fuel relay module. Started right up and idled smoother with less noise than before.

After awhile, went for test drive and couldn't believe the power and boost. Forget smokin a E320, I wanna play tag with a E55. WOW!!! (maybe I've been driving my 85 300d too long? I did own a 01' E320 and this has MORE power)

But alass was short lived. Ten minutes later, engine cut out again.

After starting up a few minutes later things were back to the way they had been:

1) engine runs well to 3k RPM; betwen 3 & 4K seems to back up on itself and not go anywhere under heavy throttle. Where did my boost go
2) Am noticing now that while running if I apply a firm finger and attempt to wiggle the electrical connection to the IP that the engine shuts down. Seems firmly seated, but isn't?

At Idle have NO air in lines. At 2K RPM and above have air running from lower side of Shut off solenoid to fuel pump. Is this normal?

When dies or is turned off, fuel line from fuel thermostat to pre-filter is only half full. When restarted, is filled instantly. Normal?

Ideas?

Are CE lights supposed to clear if malfunctioning part is replaced? Is still lit up.

Terry Allison

[mbdoc]

What are the check engine codes?? They are inportant to diagnosis.

[TMAllison]

M.B.Doc - Will any ol OBD II scanner ISO 9141(?) read the car or is something special required?

[mbdoc]

All 1996 & later cars (including diesels) sold in the US are ODB2 compliant.

[MrCjames]

Not to question the repairs performed but did you happen to replace the main rubber lines with new hose clamps? If these were overlooked it may explain the trace amounts of air you are getting in the system, as well it could explain the intermittent power loss.

I had a very unusual 210 vehicle that was plagued with an intermittent dying problem. Based on that experience I would like to leave you with one odd thought. Are you able to perform a voltage drop test? If so check the negative circuit between the battery terminal and the engine block during cranking, and then when driving the car. (should not exceed .500mV) Fluke 88 has a min/max record function that is extremely helpful during this test. If I hadn’t discovered this problem myself you would be hard pressed getting me to believe that a loose cable connection would cause a dying problem while having no affect on the starting circuit.

An experience you simply do not forget!

[TMAllison]

M.B.Doc

Spoke to my mechanic today and he did have the car scanned. He said there were no codes. I'd forgotten.

Also dealer in Tx. said same thing, again I'd forgotten (was a tough day at work today).

So...based on that do I take the car somewhere to have it scanned or does that in and of itself help?

[TMAllison]

Started car this evening and power was back. Idle a little rough. Drove 10 minutes and died. Wouldnt start. Pushed IP plug (not loose) and fired right up. When restarted power was gone. Only modest power to 3k.

[BootieNH]

Same exact problem I'm having!! Please see my "Help My Car Keeps Stalling" thread under Diesel Discussion. I am VERY interested in the diagnosis for this problem. Stalled after exactly one mile from morning cold start for 3 days in a row now. Back at dealer's today. Tells me that the car only runs for one mile because it's "running on the residual fuel in the fuel line" and the fuel pump is the likely culprit. I think that b/s because it IS possible to get the car running eventually, and once running, seems to not stall. It's the cold start thing that causes the consistent stalling problem. Car "hesitates" as you describe. No oomph. What is "electrical connection to IP"? Ignition plug? Dealer has told me there is no air in lines. Dealer informed me of "low voltage" codes but did not have a diagnosis. MrCjames, your comments are of special interest because that seems to be the exact issue I'm having. But you left us hanging... ; ) What is the solution to the "low voltage" codes if that is, in fact, the source of the problems?????

[TMAllison]

There are similarities. Mine doesnt hesitate and splutter to a stop; is like key is turned off.

Look for my prior posting "99 E300 cuts out" for beggining of my travails.

Of particular interest to me were posts therein raising questions conerning fuel shut off solenoid on side of IP (injection pump) and the fuel relay module controling fuel metering and shutdown. Replacing the relay module has made the most difference to my cars performance and reliability (thanks DOC) but not resolved it. This cars IP is electronically controlled unlike the older diesels.

I also have a Check Engine light on and a computer that doesnt seem to want to give up any fault codes or be cleared.

I am personally leaning toward a harness problem at the IP or malfunction of the fuel thermostat causing my shutdowns at this point.

Of course will probably find my computer is bad.

[BootieNH]

I can certainly sympathize with your frustration level. I bit the bullet and took it to a "true MB dealer", and they still can't diagnose the problem. It's a pretty helpless feeling. I found this link which seems to show some sort of techical troubleshooting pertaining to the fuel delivery system. I'm not a tech, and don't know what it means, but it might be useful to somebody with these problems. I'll keep an eye on your thread and post anything I find out that may be of use to you from my repair experiences.

http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdfs/508%20Systems%20II/508%20HO%20Part%2008%20Electronic%20controls%20(WJB)%2004-01-01.pdf

[TMAllison]

Have two codes listed in order:

P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction (possible I am responsible by unplugging in order to get re-started?)

P0180 Furel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (on shutdown line from pre-filter to thermostat is only partially filled; on start is pressurized immediately with no air leaks)

Have two new fuel leaks:

1) Seal(?) at IP line #6 counting front to back beneath lock washer; dos not appear to be the cap or line itself.
2) Up high on back of IP close to where IP electronics enters rear of pump. Can't see from above or below to be sure.

Would sure like to *talk* to person who designed that darn intake manifold and ask him what he was thinkin!

[mbdoc]

Both codes are about the SAME component, the fuel shut-off solenoid. MB part number 000-078-44-49. That is the part you un-plug & replug & then the engine starts again! HAS that part been replaced??

[TMAllison]

No.

Replaced teh relay module first.

Any thoughts about the fuel leaks? Manifold has to come off and probably not a DIY repair on the pump, or is it?

[mbdoc]

That isn't relay module, that is BOLTED to the injection pump at the front!

[TMAllison]

Thanks. That was understood.

Was asking if the fuel leaks I described in same post was a DIY project, or not?

The fact I am asking probably answers that question sufficiently.

M.B.DOC - Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expirience; you and the forum are a great resource.

Terry Allison