I recently replaced my Air Mass Sensor after my CE light came on (I ran the codes, thus giving me the error and by deduction, the needed repair). Once the car relearned (adaptation), the light went out after two days.

But... now when I accelerate hard, the supercharger kicks in then all of a sudden the car just bogs down hard to almost a stop. If I continue to drive the car it will accelerate, but it takes a long while to get it up to speed. It seems the supercharger won't engage.

Now, if i let the car sit overnight, it seems to reslove the issue until I put my foot into it. Then poor performance all over again.
I ran the codes again and came up with a P301 (or was it 300) and a P170. They were freeze codes as the CE light only came on for a half a day then gone. I replaced the spark plugs with new Bosh to see if I had a bad plug. Smoother idle, but did not resolve the issue.

Could this be a bad O2 sensor? What other sensors feed the computer that would cause this problem.

Thanks
Shawn

2000 C230K w/ 98000 miles

First code is " Misfire on cyl. # 1"..
Second code is " Fueltrim malfunction ".
I would go after the first code first.
Anytime you have a sufficient misfire, to be detected by the ECU, it could be related to the second code, as a misfire is interpreted by the O2 sensor as a LEAN fuelmixture.
Therefore, if you eliminate the misfire, it may well take care of the second code/problem.
Sounds like your car is going into " limpmode".

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2007 C 230 Sport.

So other than an O2 sensor, what else should I be looking at to eliminate the "fuel trim malfunction"? (And besides the MAS & plugs).

I'll order the O2 sensor (any special tool to remove??) tomorrow. I guess in the mean time i'll keep my foot out of it

Maybe I wasn't too clear on my explanation.
It is possible that the misfire ( caused by some ignition problem ), is responsible for the fuel trim code.
At 98 k miles, an O2 sensor would not be a total waste of money.
As far as special tools required, you can buy ( at any automotive jobber ) an O2 sensor wrench.
It is a deep socket ( 21 mm ) with a slot cut into the side, where the wire exits, before you attach your ratchet.
Should be able to get this for @ $ 10.00.
Btw., the hex portion on ALL O2 sensors is the same.
So, you're not buying a very special, or make-specific tool.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Well I changed out the O2 sensor and no change. It drove great yesterday, but today it was the devils child.

At WOT it just bogs down and then chugs hard back and forth. If I let off on the throttle, it goes back to somewhat normal driveability. As long as I don't put my foot more than 1/3 of the way into it I can drive around. The wierd part is I'm not getting a CE light consistently. Sometimes I do, then it goes away once I keep my foot out of it.

My biggest concern is if I am in a situation where I need to get up and go, this car will do the opposite and almost come to a stop.

To date I've changed the MAS, 02 sensor and plugs. I had another issue in which when I changed the MAS I could then start the car without it stalling.

Is there anymore DIY items I can do before I surcome to the mercy of the Dealership?

Shawn

A couple more items to suspect.
Has the fuelfilter ever been changed?
Possibly ( this would be an item of desperation ) a partially plugged exhaust system/cat. converter ?

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Tell me where to look for the filter and I'll check it out.

It's just wierd... This morning the car was a rocket ship! Didn't miss a beat. Hit the gas and she fly's. I'm wondering if there isn't a sensor telling it to do something other than to perform normaly. How many sensors control fuel delivery and performance. Should I be looking at emmisions (items)?

The fuel filter is situated in front & to the left ( inner side ) of the right rear wheel.
If you look under the car from the rear, just ahead of the rear axle, you will see an aluminum canister with some hoses, that's it.
There is a plastic " splash tray " under it that will have to be removed to change the filter, but you can see the filter with the tray attached.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Found it. It's about the size of a soup can. But next to it is another canister that is the size of a mag flashlight (D Battery ). It is connected in front of the fuel filter and has two wires coming out of it (it is also connected to the fuel tank) What is it?
Is it the fuel pump? if so, could a signal be sent to stop sending fuel or limit it?

Yes, the one with the wires is your fuelpump.
Don't mess with it. It either works, or it does not.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

So here's the latest...

Fuel filter made no differance (but it didn't hurt to change it out).

What I was able to do was replicate the problem, quickly drive to my mechanic and came to the following conclusion:

The Supercharger is not engaging. He plugged in his handy-dandy Snap-on computer and it read that the supercharger was "off". Not off in the sence it was not engaged, off in that it shut down and will not start.
But, if we shut down the car, let it sit a few moments then restart, the supercharger will engage (in park this test was performed) around 1900-2100 rpms. Performing a load test (in drive) it engages at the same rpms, hesitates, then the motor begins to bog down. Thus disengauging the supercharger.

So for all you supercharger elites, explain how the Eaton M62 is supposed to work. Is there sensors that feed it information? How does it determine when to engage and disengage? And why would it work some of the time and not others? Is it a fuel sensory problem?
Thanks
Shawn

Shawn

Sorry to hear about your ongoing problem.
Wish I could help you more but, as I'm too new to my M-B, including the S/C system, I'm stumped.
Logic tells me, with the S/C having an electro-magnetic clutch, the signal for it to engage would be largely a load-sensing signal, throttle position signal ( and possibly an rpm trigger as well ).
Just in case you need it : www.canadiansupercharger.com

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2007 C 230 Sport.