Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-31-2004, 06:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
window troubles (126)

About a week ago my drivers side front window developed a problem. The window goes down just fine, however when raising the window, just as it approaches the fully closed position a very loud "thump" is heard repeatedly until the button is released. I finally got around to removing the door panel today and got to looking around. First, I found a small black plastic "nut" lying inside the door. I'm not sure if it's related, but it's there. Next I saw a small white plastic piece which is attached to the window motor which had been ripped. Finally, when raising the window I can see that the motor itself "turns" counterclockwise until right before the window is all the way up, at which time it "thumps" back and forth until the button is released. I have enclosed some pics, and if any others are needed to help, let me know. In case anyone was going to ask, the tape on the motor has been there since bought the car. This is a 1987 560SEL, by the way. Thanks for any help!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-31-2004, 06:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
The black nut...
Attached Thumbnails
window troubles (126)-piece1.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-31-2004, 06:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
The white plastic thing...
Attached Thumbnails
window troubles (126)-motor1.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-31-2004, 06:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
I almost forgot, some of the teeth on the "jaw" are worn down, toward the end
Attached Thumbnails
window troubles (126)-teeth.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-31-2004, 06:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
last one...
Attached Thumbnails
window troubles (126)-motorup.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-31-2004, 07:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: LaPorte, IN
Posts: 400
Not sure about the spare pieces, but the window regulator is shot--those broken teeth are the reason for the noise at the end of the up cycle. It's not a terribly difficult change. The new regulator will kind of naturally align itself, and it only goes in one way. Good luck.
__________________
Earl McLain
'02 C230 Kompressor
'89 560 SEL "Frau BlueCar" (retired April 2004)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-31-2004, 08:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
That's what I figured...
I assume that changing the regulator involves removing the glass? I have been looking for an excuse to change the glass for about a year, as there is a pretty bad scratch on it.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-31-2004, 08:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
Also, do you think that the motor should be replaced as well? Could it have caused the problem with the regulator, or will I be okay continuing to use the existing motor?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-31-2004, 08:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: LaPorte, IN
Posts: 400
I've only seen mine, but it was caused by a bushing failure misaligning the regulator. I can't get my shop manual cd to work, but if i recall correctly, you just wedge the glass up. Would be a good time to change it though. My motors are still fine in the '89. Just make sure to replace the moisture barriers. While you are in there, it's a good time to change the door handle if yours is drooping--not too expensive.
__________________
Earl McLain
'02 C230 Kompressor
'89 560 SEL "Frau BlueCar" (retired April 2004)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-31-2004, 09:18 PM
Q Q is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 839
You shouldn't have to remove the glass to get the regulator replaced.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-02-2004, 01:21 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
Alright, I'll be ordering a new regulator tomorrow...I'll be back here when I get stuck
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-02-2004, 08:10 AM
This space for sale
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,367
Justin... I am in the same position as you are. The teeth on the end of the regulator wore out and wont take the window totally to the top. There's a 1/2" of space. I had to pull the window up to fully close it. I ordered a good condition used regulator with motor for $40 shipped. Unfortunately I don't have a heated garage and in Ohio its chilly. I am waiting for the weather to warm up a little before I hit this project. Let me know when you will be starting.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-06-2004, 08:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Oakland, CA USA
Posts: 221
Snibble-
I just finished putting in the new regulator. Since I already had the door panel off, the total time spent changing the old for the new was about 30 minutes. The procedure was surprisingly simple and self explanatory. Thanks to everyone for the advice!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-06-2004, 09:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: LaPorte, IN
Posts: 400
Congratulations Justin

I'm a novice at this stuff, but the engineering on these cars often lets them tell us what to do once we figure out where to start. What next??
__________________
Earl McLain
'02 C230 Kompressor
'89 560 SEL "Frau BlueCar" (retired April 2004)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-07-2004, 03:10 AM
wbain5280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
Did you grease the track at the bottom of the window that the plastic guide runs in? Did you perhaps replace that?

I just finished replacing one of the plastic pieces that broke. I used a clevis pin in place of the supplied rivet. I did had to turn the pin in my lathe but you can enlarge the hole in the regulator arm instead.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page