MBJTC, no ignorance at all.

The pullers are used to get the ball joints out of the upper and lower control arms. I'll have to take some pics for you and I'll post them.

The press is used to get the large rubber bushings into the bearing bracket. They were, in my case, fairly easy to remove. The 12 ton press is only $100 at Harbor Freight, on sale.

I took the spindle to an Indie, literaly they are all Indians, MB repair shop for the ball joint. I'll take the other side off tonight and take it in tomorrow.

Mike:

Thanks, but it's taking so long! I was messing with the ball joint and it was taking too long. I had a shop do it for me.

I'll post more pics.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

I may just have to use Mike's whacking method as I don't have or want to get these pullers just for on use.

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

With a three pound sldge and an old king pin the old guide mounts come out of the bearing bracket cleanly. It only takes a few solid whacks. Just be sure not to hit your hand while steadying the king pin.

An old king pins makes an excellent large utility punch. Anyone with an old straight axle truck probably has a couple laying around. I also have a large brass drift that I use when there is worry of marring or sparking.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

See pic 1. I wacked it OK and it still wouldn't pop off. The bolt seat is distorted so I'll have to fix that.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Hi,

Looking at your photos (I always love to see these photos - Just like Kodak says ), I gotta bring this thread back to the top here with a couple of questions .
After disscussing the removal of the Ball Joints,you posted photos of the Bearing Bracket on the ground, off the car.
As I am about to go down that road I am really curious about that stage off your front end rebuild .
From the first photo it does not seem as if you supported the lower control arm or spring before removing the bearing bracket.
Was there no need to do that ? Or are these photos just missing from the post ? Did you also replace the lower control arm bushings at the same time ? would you tell us more about that.

Thanks IA

Here is a pic of the passenger side bearing bracket and ball joint. As you can see, rust took it's toll. The rubber boot had a hole that let water in. It also didn't drain properly causing ruste. I used a small scratch awl and a hammer to get the rust flakes out. Tap tap here, tap tap there and it was mush cleaner. Then I used my electric drill to get most of the remaining residue out. Getting the new ball joint in was more difficult than the other side. I sprayed lube on the inside.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Yes, I did not support the lower control arm with a stand. When the car is on the lift at the garage, the suspension is held in place by the shock. There is a U shaped bracket under the upper control arm though.

If you replace the upper control arm, the bolt will be a PITA to get out and back in. I put it back in from front to rear. Another person will help for this. The roll bar bushings will also cause an alignment problem for the bolt. I reused my old ones. The drivers side is blocked by the brake lines and master cylinder.

I am not going to replace the lower control arm bushing, yet. The spring must be removed and it's an expensive job at the dealer. I can see why they charge so much. It's a tough job.

If you are going to replace the spindle ball joint, you need to pop the upper joint first to allow more room for the lower joint. Use the larger puller and you will have no problems. Find a service center to replace the ball joint for you. I speak from experience when I report the loaner tools or Harbor Freight tool will not work.

I'll take some more pics in the morning if you all want me to.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

I was asking because what is still needing replacement on my car are the Bearing Bracket Bushings and the Lower Control arm Bushings. Everything else is pretty much done.
I have read here on the forum how other members have done these tasks, but have not yet seen good detailed photos of these procedures.
thanks again

The spring needs to be compressed using the official MB spring compressor.

The 'subframe' bushings are fairly easy. They can be knocked out with a plastic hammer. I used brake cleaner to clean the holes and lots of silicone spray to put the new ones in. I used a shop press but a threaded rod and some large washers will also work.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

About using an "official" MB spring compressor.....I'm sure using one if you have access to one is the best idea. However, I would not have any idea where to find one of these things. You can rent one from Performance Products, but as collateral they charge you the entire $600 and then credit you that back minus rental charges ($85) upon return. So I would prefer not to have my credit card loaded up like that for the time period that I need this compressor. And if I can save 85 bucks...that's 85 bucks (plus shipping).

So, here is what my friend who is a mechanic at his dad's shop suggested. Now, I do realize that he and his dad are of the "old school" mindset, but sometimes what works...works regardless of how barbaric it may seem. Well anyway, they say to put a floor jack (or transmission jack if it's up on a lift) underneath the lower control arm and then take off the steering knuckle, shock, etc and then slowly lower the jack and the spring will eventually be fully extended and then just "fall out". His dad did say it was a PITA getting the new spring in, but very possible, I'm sure he's done it a few times over his 30+ years as a mechanic.

Now I know I'm gonna get it from all sides now by suggesting this rather crude method, but I thought it was worth mentioning! :p

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

I remember reading about this method before.
if I remember correctly BIGRED wrote it up here.You might try the search ...
There was a difference of opinion between him and DMORRISON about spring removal techniques and safety.

It's all back together again.

Today I had the passenger side ball joint replaced at a local Indian indie shop. They did a fine job. I got back home and removed the passenger side upper control arm so I could replace it. I had to remove the battery and move the ww fluid container. I found a lot of lleaves and other decayed matter under the tray. What a mess. Once I finished the upper contol arm and lowered the car and tightened the upper control arms, I vavummed out as much as I could. The sun and the car were in the right position so all the moisture could evaporate. I then vacuumed the mess out. I'll post a pic of car tomorrow. Next, state inspection.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Success on the state inspection. I told the inspector what I had done, he is familiar with my cars and the work I have done, in sprucing up the car. The leaf pic is on the way.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Warren.. did you have any problems with the upper ball joint nut not coming off? Mine is spinning, but still on after 10 minutes screwing it off.

Sounds like the nut was never torqued properly. Use slip joint pliars to hold the joint in the spindle and loosen the nut. You have to use a long puller to loosen the lower nut.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.