A local shop wanted 150 to "change" my shocks. i decided to do it my self. i did the drivers side fine, i didn't really know the procedure before, but it tooke me 30 mins to do it. i was about to tackle the passanger side when i ran into trouble.

on the top of the shock under the hood. I got the top nut off. but i can't get the bottom nut off. when i take a wrench to it the whole thing moves. so they pretty much just spin around. i tried to hold it with another wrench, but it didn't have enough grip and actually stripped some of the thread off the shaft.

i sprayed some liquid wrench and pound on it a little bit. still in there. the whole piece is rusted.

how should i tackle this? since i will be replacing this should i just try to destroy it? the radiator overfill bottle is there so it is hard to work anything. any advice would help.

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198? 300D ???K - Future DD
1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12
1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08
1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05

Is this a location where vice-grips can be used? They've helped me numerous times at work with stripped bolts. Make sure to get them on TIGHT.
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Fist off, get a good penetrating fluid – PB Blaster or Knock’er Loose. Liquid Wrench is useless as a penetrating fluid. If you have the time, apply the fluid several times per day over a period of days. Then use heat! A propane torch (or MAPP gas is even hotter) is an absolute must if you’re going to do suspension work. Heat the nut for a minute or two, and use Vice-Grips as Ned2683 said. The heat is going to destroy the rubber bushing on the bottom of the shock, but that’s OK, you’re replacing it anyway.

If you don’t have several days to allow the penetrating fluid to work, then try the heat by itself. Chances are it will do the trick.

(A torch is the most powerful tool you can have against rusty fasteners. It will free-up rusty parts that brute force alone would have broken.)

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

If I'm understanding correctly - you've got the lock nut off but can't get the second nut loose because the shock shaft is turning?

You just need to get a bite on the top of the shaft with a pair of vise grips to hold the hsaft stationary while you loosen the nut. Some PB Blaster will help too. There is actually a special socket for the top of the shock shaft, I usually use a 1/4 open end, or similar sized metric, unless the nut has been tightened to much. That is when I graduate to vise grips.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

i finally got it loose. i had to cut the rubber under it and slide the metal tab down. so i can get a grip of the shaft under the nut. i also had to take out the overfill bottle toget a good grip on it. thanks for all the advices.

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198? 300D ???K - Future DD
1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12
1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08
1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05

I had this problem on an SL. I bought a Lisle tool from NAPA but it didn't fit quite right, I broke the top of the shaft, and did basically what you did to get the $%$% thing out. If you had this tool first, used liquid wrench or something similar first, this tool (about $12) might have worked for you.

If it's any comfort, the rears (on an SL, anyway) are not as bad (USE PENETRATING FLUID FIRST!).