W124, 103 engine,
The viscous fan is scraping the bottom crankshaft pully and make a terrible racket. The fan operates properly.
Upon checking around, I found that there is a lot of up/down play on the fan clutch shaft.
Is there a bearing in there than can be replaced or should the clutch be replaced as a unit?
Any other parts (bracket?) could be involved?
Any tip on doing the job?
Thanks.
JackD

Anyone with a hint??
Thanks.
jackD

Sound like you need the fan clutch bearing bracket asembly. Go to FastLane and check your model for it under Cooling System.

If it's the same as on my 86 300E it's like the one pictured below.
It'll run you about $106 - $126. The inner bearing race is the shaft that the fan clutch mounts on, so you can't just replace the bearing; you have to replace the whole assembly (just did it on mine a short time ago). While you're at it you might want to check or replace the accessory belt idler pulley (about $35) and the accessory belt tensioner ( $126 to $142 ) and the belt itself ($17). Check my post in this thread about tensioners to determine if your belt tensioner is good or not: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=76303

Hope this helps,

Gary

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Thanks Garry. You are right on the button.
I dismantled the whole thing this afternoon and found out the bearing on the bracket you showed is shot. Good diagnostic of yours.
On this same bracket, I have an other pully which I can't seem to figure out how to remove to re-install on the new bracket.. Any tips?
Everything is ready for re-assembly but.....the dealer does not have the bracket in stock.....2 days wait.
Thanks again.
JackD

Jack,

The other pulley is the accessory belt idler pulley and it's held on by an allen bolt that uses a 6mm hex wrench, IIRC. The bolt head is normally hidden from view by a flat plastic disc cover that snaps over the outer race of the bearing. I've included a picture from FastLane of the tensioner assembly that uses basically the same idler wheel. If you look closely at the picture on the right, you'll see that the disk has a small rim that you can get a couple of wide-blade screwdrivers under and pop it off to gain access to the bolt. It will very likely get broken in the process though, so buy a new one when you get the bearing bracket. Also, spin the idler pulley and check for any roughness or noise. It should be very smooth and quiet. Any roughness or noise is grounds for replacement.

Cheers,

Gary

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Thanks Garry.
I finally was able to get the "soab" bolt off the pulley.
The 2 idler pulleys turn very freely and smoothly so there is no need to replace them.
At the point I am now, how big of a job would it be to re-seal the upper front engine cover. There is a slight oil leak.
Do I need to remove the distributor/cap? Does the valve cover need to be removed?
Thanks again.
JackD

Haven't done this one myself yet, but here's a link to someone who has. Read the reply by pmizell where he details pretty much a step-by-step of the procedure, as well as a list of needed tools, parts and supplies.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=79978&highlight=front+cover+seal


This link shows a diagram with the likely suspects circled:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=77204&highlight=m103+front+engine+cover

For more discussions, do a search on "front cover seal", "front engine cover", "upper timing chain cover" or similar.

Gary

Thanks Garry (Phalcon51). Your excellent tips allowed me to do the job without any problems (except for some pieces of my flesh permanently embedded in my radiator, trying to get those da*** bolts on the fan.
jackD

Jackd,

Glad it was helpful. Next time, check out some lightweight mechanics gloves at the local Pep Boys, NAPA, Auto Zone, etc., or just cheap cotton gardening gloves from Home Depot or Lowes. Use'em a few times and then throw'em away when they get too greasy. Even doubling up a pair of rubber exam gloves can save a lot of flesh and aggravation.

Gary