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#1
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Cracked valve and broken valve spring
Hi Guys
I haven't posted in a while since I've been working a lot, but that has come to an end, and with that end, I decided to fix the head gasket oil leak in my 190. I managed to pull off the head without too much effort, I'm still amazed at how easy it was compared to the last car I did this on. Today, I decided to replace the valve stem seals, and as I was doing so, I discovered that one of the exhaust valves has a hairline crack about 1/4 of the radius of the valve, it has to go. On a totally different cylinder, the spring also on the exhaust valve was broken, now this had to have happened some time recently because there is not much wear and tear on the broken spring, and the car just passed it's final emissions test without a problem. I also keep a very close eye on my car but recently others have been driving it more often then I have. In any case, today, once my dad comes back from work and I have access to a car, I'm going down to the dealer to see if I can get those parts ordered in along with some nuts and bolts that are too old to be put back on to the car, I am wondering however if I should drop the head off at the dealer to get it rebuilt. Now as for milage on the engine which is probably what should determine if it should be rebuilt or not, I don't know what it is since the engine has been swapped before I bought the car, I do know that it has at least 40000km on it that I've had it with me for, but from what I have been told it should be between 150000km and 200000km. Looking it over, other then the valve stem seals, everything looks in really good shape, no visible damage, I will be measuring the valves in a bit but they don't have any noticeable slack. I do have a single question, since one of the valves will be replaced, I will have to get it ground to make sure that it seats propperly, is there anything else that is a must in this situation, or any other recommendations? I think I will leave the grinding to a reputable shop or the dealer, unless it is something easily done, however I'm not familiar with the procedure at all. Thanking you in advance xp
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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
#2
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I think a complete valve job, surface mill/sand, and all new springs and guides are in order. But if you want to get by on the cheap you can lap the new valve in and call it good. Lapping is basically liquid sandpaper, grease mixed with grit. You put some on the valve seat, drop the valve in and spin it a bit until you can see that both the valve and seat have been sanded 360 degrees. You do not want to see a broken circle of sanding, that would mean that spot is too low and it will leak and burn the valve. It should take just a few seconds by hand. Be sure to clean all the grit out.
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#3
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Consulted dealer
I've been to my local dealer. I was told that the entire head would have to be shipped off for a full rebuilt, they don't do partial repairs, tomorrow I will get a call with the price quote. In a few words, I already made place to take the head to a different location and see what I can accomplish.
Checking the valves, there is almost no wear on them, two guides are a bit worn from intake side. If budget allows, I will replace all guides, other then that all springs and the cracked valve for sure. wish me luck ![]() xp
__________________
1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
#4
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I wouldn't go to the dealer for something like that, a regular old machine shop is fine. I think I paid about $80 for my valve job and resurfacing ('85 190E 2.3 8V). Might of taken them an hour to do it. A typical valve should be $5-10, guides about the same (installing the guides is where they get you), and springs less than that, but since it's a MB who knows. I had to buy seals too, another $20 or so. My head gasket is what really surprised me, $100!
My BMW needed a head gasket, but they wanted $240 for that sucker, so I never did buy one. Shop around, the best price I found was a local place that only does heads. |
#5
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On 190E 2.3 engines before 1990 MB suggests that ALL valve springs should be replaced when ever the cylinder head is off, as they will fail. The early M103 engines also had the same problem.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#6
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valve job
I found a private machine shop that will do a full rebuilt for $200 cdn plus parts, not a bad deal compared to the $2300 quote I got from the dealer. And the surprising part is that it will be ready for next day
![]() I took a good look at some of the cylinder heads coming out of that place and it's real good quality work. I'm waiting right now to hear from the owner as to what the final price will be. ![]() xp
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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
#7
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almost done
I got my cylinder head back from the machine shop today, they did great work as far as I can tell, the car still needs to be put back together, and we'll see how she runs.
I was very surpirsed, for $315 + tax I got all valve guides replace, surface milled, degreased of course, even painted. It looks brand new, this guy did an amazing job if you ask me. Naturally all valves were machined, one was replace since it was cracked, same with the spring. If anyone is interested in a qulaity machine shop in Toronto area, let me know I'll send you the info, this place is definately worth a shot compared to every other place I found so far. The head is already back on along with intake and exhaust mainfolds, now just the fuel distributor, belt, fan, air cleaner etc etc.... cooling hoses, fresh coolant and oil, and she's ready to do. I hope it'll be good as new *fingers crossed* ![]() xp
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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project. |
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