Porject 68

[cj750rock]

I have owned many MBZs over the years but one this old is new for me. I have started a project with a 68 280SE coupe. It is a no rust/accident car. I always wanted a convertible but this was too good to pass. The car is getting painted by a very well known body restoration shop and the work will take about 2-3 months. All trims off and down to metal. All or most rubber and weatherstrip will be replaced also. When it is done, it will go to an upholstery shop for new leather, padding and carpet to original condition. After that wood and mechanical. The car runs like a new car and my goal is make it a true #2 car. It has been painted once but little off from the original color. It will be back to normal when it is done.
I've attached some photos including my other MBZs. I will be adding more as it goes.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/davidhoh@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=/9aa7
Will be needing help from you, I am sure.

[baco99]

beautiful cars! that 280 doesn't look like it needs anything at all!

[norbtx]

I saw that on ebay not to long ago. Great find! Take lots of pics.

[cj750rock]

I just got back from the body shop. Found about 1/4" thich bondo on the p-side rear quarter as suspected. It will be fixed. Thanks for kind comments. I think I met the right car and the car met the right owner (me). It will be back to original soon. Visit my photo album as I will add pictures every week.

[norbtx]

Wow that was fast! Are you going to take the glass out before they paint?

[300SDog]

This was it *before* you tore it apart?

"Must do" items should probably include recoring the heater box; bead cleaning suspension links, coil springs, etc

This is not the first 111 coupe showcar we've seen here lately, not by a longshot.

[cj750rock]

yes, the glasses will come out tomorrow but the body work will go for 2 more weeks. They do move pretty fast. his shops has about a dozen show cars being worked on including John Force's Dragsters. There are some lower riders as well. I bought all seals and trims. The chrome work will begin next month.

[norbtx]

Sweet. I'm thinking about doing the same to mine, but its my first "classic" and I think I should enjoy driving it first before going under the knife for a year or two. Sounds like you're going to get yours done pretty quick.

[cj750rock]

I am keeping mine a driver. I could have started w/ the mechanical and gone that way but to me, cars are worth showing when they are driven. Don't get me wrong, I am not going to go to work in it. I have other cars for that. I want to keep the look of "driven" by not getting everything redone as a show car. The door panels will stay the way they are, vertical wood of the dash will remain since it has that "worn look" but not broken, some chrome pieces will not be re-chromed but cleaned and polished. I can't drive a trailer queen. The engine bay will be cleaned but will not be painted since it is original. I plan to put about 2,500 miles per year. A 1.2-1.5 car but not a #2 car. The overall project has a budget and time limit. I am hoping to get this project done by Thanksgiving, 04.
BTW, this car has all #s matching with original engine block (not rebuilt)except the A/C was added by the dealer in the 60's. I am not adding or modifying anything on this car (maybe add Pertronix).

#1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been fully detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: This is NOT a 100 point trailered show car. See show car description in How to Use section.

#2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required, but may be) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle.

[Q45Denver]

Hmmm-sounds like a #2 car to me. Does the car's value justify this type of restoration or could you not find a #2 car to begin with? Who are you using for parts? BTW- I have a 1969 that is blue/blue like yours and probably a #3. Even though it is not that complicated of a car (compared to the new ones or the 300SEC) it has been my most expensive car to drive on a per mile basis. Have fun with the restoration.

[norbtx]

I think that if its what you want, who cares how much it'll cost. I don't think anyone here is in the restoration business that has to turn a profit on their car. We're all enthusiasts. If we weren't we'd be driving new car that are reliable and cheaper to maintain. Right?

[cj750rock]

Yes and no. It really depends where you sell your car and how well you restore a car. I an not interested in selling the car for a written value by anyone. I also know for a fact that a couple of these 280SE restored coupes went for more than $38k here in So. California last year. Here are more examples. My 91 SEC value is $17.5k but the dealer is confident that they will be able to sell the car for $27k. My friend is selling his 92 500E for 10k more than the written value and he is getting offers and ........ list goes on.
I am not in it for money but if I can show my car and if I can smile and feel great about it, it is priceless.
Call it #1, call it #2, it doesn't matter. My "GOAL" is between #1 & #2. I will let the real judges be judges on my car when I am done with it. I am having fun with it.

[cj750rock]

By the way, I am using Rusty for parts so far. I have bought some jucnky parts but will be fixed and restored. (little fabricating skill I have will be handy on this one).

[Q45Denver]

Prices must be a lot higher out there. I've seen a couple "almost" #1 3.5 coupes and a solid 250SE #2 convertible for about $30K here. I've quite a few parts I've accumulated for mine over the years-some NOS but have put off doing much to it because of other priorities. However it does have a recent bare metal paint job. I decided not to get the rear bumper (and some other parts) rechromed due to cost and instead got a nice set from a sedan for cheap recently. The rest of the chrome is presentable and I already had the front bumper and some of the trim that had dings rechromed before I had it painted. It seems that the chrome shops charge based on what the parts cost new instead of mainly labor? If I got it in #1 or #2 condition, I think I'd seriously consider taking it to CA or advertising it internationally on eBay to sell. I think the chrome would be the major expense, however. There is only one chrome shop in Denver that I know of and they quoted me about $1200 for my bumper. I'm sure you have a lot more options in CA. Let us know how it goes.

[cj750rock]

I haven't decided which chrome shop I am going to use. If you want things chromed, let me know. It might be cheaper for you to send them here and get them chromed. I will help.