W114...bulb to pump conversion, mod.

[Jub]

Hi everyone,

I have been trying to come up with an alternative to the bulb system: and I'm getting close.

Bulbs (made of rubber), dry out and eventually crack. Replacing them are simple- for a price (~100). Electric pumps are cheap and near universal (ie, junk yard accessible).

So....why not install a pressure switch under the foot pedal, run it through a relay that powers an electric washer pump (see scaled down model attached).

FYI: used parts from 78 merc (relay, washer pump, wires; 10 bucks), and horn button from autozone (5 bucks).

I'm hoping for easier interchangeability (via 2 prong plug), and cheaper replacability.

Thoughts?

[thorsen]

Simple, economical, and easily reverted back to original. I like it!

[Shortsguy1]

The original owner of my w115 did something similar, but instead of a pressure switch, the simply installed a new switch in the center console. So not ideal/original, but my car has always been utilitarian. I still use the foot pump to trigger the wipers and then flip this switch to run the washer fluid.

I had to replace the pump finally and it was interesting trying to buy a replacement. Car parts stores have trouble selling you something if it isn't in their computer associated with your make and model of car. And they didn't have any out for me to just pick one myself. All in all, it is probably a $15 mod.

[Jub]

So, installed pump and switch: but not working? The pump engages, revs, but no water.

I think I have the tubing all screwy. I thought the end perpendicular to pump prongs squirts, and the lengthwise piece sucks water? Must be some simple mix up (poles reversed?)...

[Tomguy]

A lot of washer pumps require they be lower than the level of the washer fluid. I am unsure if that's the case with this one or not, but that's why they're often built into the reservoir. If reversing polarity doesn't correct, you may need to see if submersing it does. Also: There are check valves in the original lid you appear to be using, how do you have this setup? I see you have 2 lines still, this mod should allow you to run just 1 line from the reservoir (to the pump, then to the cowl squirter)

[Jub]

So pulled line going to reservoir cap and stuck it in a bottle of water...nothing.

Tomguy might be on to something: I keep reading about reservoir needing to be above pump... Going to test this next...think I have a funnel that may do the trick.

If this is the case, I may need to locate a washer pump (from some other junker), that runs irrespective of position relative to reservoir.

[Shortsguy1]

Yes, you have the hoses attached correctly.

Those pumps are not self priming, so they cannot pull any water if they are currently filled with air. It is probably best to locate the pump at about the same height as the bottom of the fluid reservoir. Doing that, and priming the supply line the first time should get it working for you. Mine is probably located about 6 inches further down into the engine compartment than yours is in the photo.

[Jub]

Success!!!

So, two issues have been addressed: Does the pump need to be "primed", and is the pump positional (ie, will not function unless it is positioned below the reservoir).

As Shortsguy1 states, it needs to be primed. I fashioned a tubing connected to a bottle of water, squeezed, and purged all air from the system. Thing fired right up (washers came back to life with force).

[Jub]

The next thing was, can I prime then re-attach to my tank and still have it function (ie, reservoir below pump). The answer so far is yes- thing runs nice. I wonder, however, if over time air can leach in the inlet-"un-priming" pump? Last note: the F inlet on tank, easily allows for a syringe to be hooked up (to the 3rd inlet) and air to be purged.

[Jub]

Finally, the switch mechanism (aka, Jubtronix system, Lol). I had noted, that the horn bottom was small enough to retrofit within the bulb. I fed the lines through the bulbs opening, then squeezed the button through back of bulb, and reconnected. It now has the look and rubbery feel of the original.

[Jub]

Final look installed inside.

[Jub]

So, woke up this morning pushed pedal and nothing. Popped hood and noticed inlet had air bubbles: pump must be below reservoir.

Made appropriate revision: strapped pump to far lower end of battery tray, below reservoir...done.

Final note on fine tuning timing: If you notice on the rubber bulb, there is cup shaped depression where the horn button must make contact (see attached). In order to accomplish this, you will need to fill this in (I used JB weld plastic). If you fill it 100%, you will cause the squirter to fire first, then the wiper...and as you release pressure off the pedal, the wiper will stop but squirter will still fire momentarily. If you fill it 50% of the way, the wiper will fire first! then the squirter... and as you release squirter will stop, then the wiper. Around 75%, it will be near simultaneous.

I would recommend starting at 50%, and going up per preference.

Jub

[Mark DiSilvestro]

I actually did this on my W114 many years ago when I mounted a new electric Chevy Cavalier washer pump just above the bulb. Took pump power directly off the original pedal switch. I had to clip the wire that cycled the wipers from the pedal as the wiper circuit was feeding back through the pedal-switch to run the pump constantly if the wipers were turned on. No big loss as I simply remembered to turn on the wipers briefly if I needed the washer when it wasn't raining.

Happy Motoring, Mark