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Thanks, Vandor, I'll keep your offer in mind for when I address the trunk. My metal is pretty solid. Looks a lot worse in pictures. It really is a good base car, and in excellent condition for our climate.
Reading, reading, reading, I have settled on a game plan. I will refresh my existing setup. I want to stretch the budget as much as possible since I won't be doing most of the work. To that end, more questions: 1) If the engine comes apart for a reseal, are there reasonably avenues to get more power? Thinking cam regrind, port work? What's worth the money and what isn't on a carbed M130? 2) Fuel delivery will stay carbed for now. The Zeniths are missing some pieces such as the anti-stall diaphragm and are in generally poor condition. I'm leaning towards a set of Webers, but can't seem to find consensus in past threads if they are a definitive win over the Zeniths or an improvement because someone's setup was worn. Any final words? 3) What are key things to consider "while I'm there" if the driveline comes out? New fuel/brake lines, clean and reseal fuel tank, rear axle bushings and seals...anything else? 4) If the gear box shifts OK, but feels a just a tad crunchy, is there anything I should do while it's out? That's what I have for now...she'll stay original and I'll contemplate a bigger engine down the line when I have more time/$ for it. Cheers!
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1968 Mercedes 280S - The Demon Car |
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Quote:
Remember, to do the engine resealing, it's gotta come out anyway, so you're only paying someone else extra labor for someone else to pull the engine/trans for the 560 if you went the parts car route.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2024 CR-V Hybrid Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2018 Durango R/T, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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