Parking Shoes longevity?

[Jorn]

How long do parking brake pads/shoes last? Tried to adjust the parking shoes, with no success, I think the previous owner maxed it out, could not turn the little wheel with a screwdriver to engage the brake. Should I just replace them and start fresh? 1990 300SE with 110K miles.

[Sugar Bear]

My experience is that the bonding agent holding the friction material to the metal shoe fails long before the friction material wears out. IMO after 20'ish years the adhesive strength becomes a roll of the dice.

The star wheel can seize and be the reason it won't move. If the car is a clean keeper, yes replace the shoes and springs.

Much of the spring hardware access when replacing the shoes is done through the lug bolt holes in the flange.

Loosen the cable, adjust both wheels and then adjust, clean and lube the cable.

[Jorn]

Ordering them now. Thanks.

[t walgamuth]

If never driven with the pb on I would not be surprised if they never needed changing.

[engatwork]

I'm thinking same way as Tom. I don't ever remember having to change pb pads. They would have had to have been on a lot (during driving) to need changing now at 110k miles. What kind of condition are the cables, pivot points in?

[meltedpanda]

many many years - 20 + at least , gotta be another issue

[Jorn]

Maybe some more inspection is needed.

[Sugar Bear]

X2 with more inspection, guessing that the root problem of the adjuster not moving is a frozen adjuster. Can you see threads on the adjuster and get penetrating oil on them through a lug hole and then tap on the star teeth with a punch?

[Jorn]

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

X2 with more inspection, guessing that the root problem of the adjuster not moving is a frozen adjuster. Can you see threads on the adjuster and get penetrating oil on them through a lug hole and then tap on the star teeth with a punch?

Hopefully I will have some time to go over it this weekend again. Will report back.

[Idle]

I once had some Mercedes where the parking brake didn't hold. So I took it all apart and found the shoes glazed over. They had plenty of material but no friction.

Since I had time to kill I roughed them with sandpaper. This did no good. I finally just replaced them and that fixed it.

While I was in there I remember replacing some hardware since I was in there and it was cheap.

But in what must have been the last fifty years I can remember needing to do this only once. So it is not a common maintaince item.

[michellefisher1748]

The longevity of parking shoes, often used in the context of motorsports or vehicle storage, can vary based on several factors, including the materials used, frequency of use, and maintenance practices.

### Key Factors Influencing Longevity:

1. **Material Quality**: Shoes made from high-quality materials, such as durable rubber or reinforced fabric, generally last longer. Cheaper materials may wear out quickly under stress or exposure to elements.

2. **Frequency of Use**: Regular use can lead to faster wear and tear. If the shoes are used frequently during events or daily operations, they may need to be replaced sooner.

3. **Care and Maintenance**: Proper cleaning and storage can significantly extend the life of parking shoes. Keeping them free from dirt and moisture and storing them in a cool, dry place can help prevent deterioration.

4. **Environmental Factors**: Exposure to extreme temperatures, sunlight, or moisture can degrade materials faster. It's advisable to protect them from such conditions when not in use.

### General Lifespan:
- Many users report that with proper care, parking shoes can last several months to a few years, depending on the usage intensity.

For more detailed information and user experiences regarding parking shoes longevity, you might find articles on automotive or motorsport forums helpful. Check out sources like **Motor Trend** or specialized motorsport sites for insights.

[cdodgyd]

Still got the originals in my 1970 W108. Work fine!

[Jorn]

Worked on it again this weekend. Was able to adjust the psg side, but I think the drivers side is shot. Looking through the holes I can see and wobble loose parts around. Ordering new pads, cheap, and will rebuild them soon.

[Sugar Bear]

Jorn, Remember to do as much spring work as possible through the hub flange holes. Slacken the forward adjuster before adjusting each wheel then go back to the forward cable adjuster.

Three clicks/teeth loose/backed-off of tight at the wheels and 3-5 clicks of travel at the pedal served me well.

The adjusters are different L to R.