It is possible to do a one-tank setup correctly. You don't need all that much:

- Injector line heaters (these will heat the injector lines to over 200F in less than 5 minutes. I have a switch built into my dash to turn them on/off (no need to have them on when I'm running on 100% D2)
- Flat plate heat exchanger. Anywhere from 10-30 plates will work fine.
- An electric pump, 6-9 PSI, to help pull the thick oil out of your tank.
- At ALL times, HOT or COLD, mix at least 10% diesel in your tank with the oil. This prevents polymerization. 10% diesel will work at about 40F at up. Below that add more diesel (as a general rule, add 10% for every 10 degrees below 40, eg 30F = 20%, 20F = 30%, 10F = 40%, etc.) and, if it's below 20F, some kerosene (5-10%).
- Always thoroughly dewater your oil (there are various methods for doing this)
- Always filter your oil to a AT LEAST 1 micron. 0.5 microns is preferable.
- Test EVERY BATCH of oil (using the pan test) to ensure that it is virtually water-free.

Optionally, you could also make a heater for your primary fuel filter (I can send you plans for this super-easy design).

Everyone who I know who has experienced failure on WVO, it has been due to improper pre-filtering, relying WAY too much on on-board filters. Also, single OR dual tank conversions should always cut the WVO with 10% diesel.

Your priorities in a single-tank are as follows:
1. CLEAN the fuel THOROUGHLY.
2. ALWAYS have at least 10% diesel.
3. Let the injector lines get hot before starting.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel