It is possible to do a one-tank setup correctly. You don't need all that much:

- Injector line heaters (these will heat the injector lines to over 200F in less than 5 minutes. I have a switch built into my dash to turn them on/off (no need to have them on when I'm running on 100% D2)
- Flat plate heat exchanger. Anywhere from 10-30 plates will work fine.
- An electric pump, 6-9 PSI, to help pull the thick oil out of your tank.
- At ALL times, HOT or COLD, mix at least 10% diesel in your tank with the oil. This prevents polymerization. 10% diesel will work at about 40F at up. Below that add more diesel (as a general rule, add 10% for every 10 degrees below 40, eg 30F = 20%, 20F = 30%, 10F = 40%, etc.) and, if it's below 20F, some kerosene (5-10%).
- Always thoroughly dewater your oil (there are various methods for doing this)
- Always filter your oil to a AT LEAST 1 micron. 0.5 microns is preferable.
- Test EVERY BATCH of oil (using the pan test) to ensure that it is virtually water-free.

Optionally, you could also make a heater for your primary fuel filter (I can send you plans for this super-easy design).

Everyone who I know who has experienced failure on WVO, it has been due to improper pre-filtering, relying WAY too much on on-board filters. Also, single OR dual tank conversions should always cut the WVO with 10% diesel.

Your priorities in a single-tank are as follows:
1. CLEAN the fuel THOROUGHLY.
2. ALWAYS have at least 10% diesel.
3. Let the injector lines get hot before starting.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

There's definitely an exact science to single-tank conversions, and thus the vast majority of people do it wrong. However, don't let your obviously limited knowledge of SVO blind you to the reality of working SVO systems. I have experience. One can listen to the people with experience, or one can listen to the guy who takes every opportunity to bash on SVO (with coincidentally VERY little experience).

If you DON'T add an electric lift pump, then you're NOT doing a correct single-tank conversion.

Gotta love forums...

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

If you need an electric pump that means your oil is too thick, it must be heated first.

Wrong. Your oil only needs to be heated/made "less thick" before it hits your IP, and preferably before your filters.

There are two ways to accomplish this: 1) an electric lift pump, or 2) an electric heated fuel pickup. Either way, you'll be using electric components.
I recommend the electric lift pump because it's a bit easier to install than a heated pickup, draws less electricity, and requires no "warm-up" time.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

How does a lift pump make cold wvo less thick?

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

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It doesn't. It compensates for high viscosity that the engine's lift pump can't handle and it means the installer is doing things wrong.

Just remember that the OM6xx were NOT designed, built, tuned or even imagined by Rudolph Diesel. They were the design and creation of Daimler-Benz AG some 70years after the first practical Diesel engine was made and some 60 years after Dr. Diesels death. Technology made HUGE strides in that time and MB's Diesels have next to nothing in common with the first engine and were NOT "designed" to run veggie oil/peanut oil/waste oil, to state otherwise is a misconception.

The manuals state clean Diesel #2, Winterized #1 or #2 with a mixture of kerosene should be used. Given that the injection system is made to single micron precision (1µm), I'd bet Mercedes and Bosch know what they are talking about when they say what fuels should be used.

YES! Now you're correct... except for the part about the installer doing something wrong (this coming from the person who has never had or done or driven a 1-tank install)... again you have two choices: electric heated pickup, or extra pump.

The pump is the more efficient way of doing it. BUT: I will admit, if you live in Alaska, or Minnesota, etc... you should do both.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel