Hey! It's Turbo617, I remember you from YouTube. Bashing my biodiesel ways. Hah! Small world
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
140-ish with the original injection pump. Myna's pumps are good for 500+HP assuming you have the needed changes to support that much power/fuel.
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140 is good enough for me, so what are the steps to achieve that sort of power?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Get rid of that, its actually a HOT air intake. The factory air filter setup is already true cold air intake.
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No, actually it is a
COLD air intake. Or at least I plan to make it one. Routing air from the fender well into a filter enclosure. Or from the stock ram air port.
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Thats not good. It should be turned up until you see black smoke out the tailpipe when accelerating from a dead stop. The Garrett T3 and KKK K26 don't supply enough air soon enough to have it all the way up or removed.
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I turned my ALDA until I saw smoke -- but never saw any. All I see sometimes is a "haze" at night at stop lights with headlights behind me. But it will never smoke when I decide to tune it.
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Anything more than 12psi is a waste of energy until you have turned up the maximum fuel.
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12 is it? Good to know, I'll dial it back tonight.
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Thats a great place for it, I had it there as well in my wagon.
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Hah! Good to see I wasn't the only one with the idea.
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
It is the first step to safely modifying the engine for more power. Unfortunately it provides 0hp on its own. All it does is cool the air which allows more fuel to be safely injected for longer periods of time.
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That's just about what I figured. Still a good step, any input on that subject?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Whats so special is the work that only they do. Custom ground pump cam, custom 7mm plungers, precise tuning to match their pump modifications and external controls to easily change the fuel limit. Nobody else in the world does what they do or has the experience to back up their work.
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Amazing, and what do one of these "magic" pumps cost with a core?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
No turbo lag, modern compressor aerodynamics, better turbine efficiency and better boost control. Power comes much sooner, meaning lots of torque down low and a flat horsepower curve from 2200rpm-4500rpm.
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Sounds good, how hard is it to bolt one on?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
HID retrofit lighting is terrible and dangerous because it blinds oncoming drivers.
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I wasn't planning to just buy a simple "HID RETROFIT KIT" off fleaBay, I was going to custom fabricate Bosch projectors from a BMW, AUDI, etc. in a set of 7" plastic "diamond cut" housings. Modern optics, not something designed for a blue tinted halogen bulb..
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Vent it to the atmosphere (Road draft tube). Catching a few drops of oil is not worth the hassle.
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I had a draft tube for a while , was not pleased with the amount of oil lost (and ending up on the underside of my car!!) I mounted a mini cone filter on the valvecover "nipple" and within a few days my valve cover and the cone filter are soaked in oil. That's atleast an ounce of oil a week, if not two? Not signifigant by any stretch but it is still engine oil being lost.
I saw a few catchcan designs on a Ricer forum I might addapt. Picts to come I suppose.
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
2-stage injectors. They smooth out the combustion, make less combustion noise, reduce emissions and gives about 5hp in the top end power.
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How does one go about fi nding these gems?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
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Yikes. But I thought the five-speed was just a four speed with an overdrive bolt-on? Maybe I'm getting mixed up here.
While we're at it with the subject of transmissions: What are the gear ratios for the four speed automatic and manual and the five speed manual?
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
3.07 is stock for yours, 2.88 is a bolt-in swap from 85 models. A 2.47 can be modified to fit but there is no speedometer that will accurately work with it in a W123.
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What does the 2.47 come out of? Can the speedo be transplanted? And isn't it just a matter of speedo gears? I could always (if I really wanted to) get some speedo gears CNC'd from nylon/ABS/aluminum.. Just an idea!
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction
Synthetic oil, advance the injection timing 2-3*, get the cam back to timing spec, etc.
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Cam back to timing spec? I'll give the injection advance a try.