Quote:
Originally Posted by TROVERMAN
Aside from being able to download a couple of helpful pages from the manual (finding TDC, cam dowel position, and torquing specs / pattern, yes doing it w/o the manual. At this point I already have removed the head, cleaned, installed new gasket, and reset head down. By moving the 'advancer' as you call it, we turned the big nut on the end, not the sprocket itself. Rotated the crank until TDC came up and used a couple of drill bits to lay flat on the head surface and into the sprocket holes. From the way the engine was when it was last running, I turned the big nut to make the timing marks line up. Right now the car has 115k on it. In March of 2006 at 82k we had a professional (indie mercedes master) do this job due to the oil leak. It is leaking again (we did overheat the engine once about a year ago, and the leaking started at that point) but all the timing marks scrawled into the sprockets and head are still there and all are lined up. The head is also flat, checked against a straight-edge.
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Here are a couple of very helpful threads that I recommend you read before you go any further:
M104 engine: Timing issue -one for the GURUS
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M104HeadGasket
The sprocket itself is what you need to rotate, not the nut. It might be the same difference; I can't remember and I'm not near the car right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TROVERMAN
Should I remove the tensioner completely and then reassemble it back into place? Why not just loosen and then re-tighten?
Thanks
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I don't think you can do that due to the ratcheting action of the tensioner. It takes up chain slack by moving outwards toward the chain and the ratchet mechanism keeps it from coming back. It clicks out (tightens) one more detent every time it thinks the chain is loose. That is why you can't loosen it or back it up. It has to be "reset" by completely disassembling it. It's not a big deal. The manual says remove it. Remove it and take it apart and clean it. Then you screw the body into the timing cover and then the impacting part goes into the tensioner body. The procedure is in the second thread, above. Replace the aluminum crush washer under the tensioner body. I'm not one to F around with what the manual says, especially knowing that too much tension will bust one or both cams, and those cams are about $400 each used.
Make sure you use the right sealant on the timing cover or you will be doing this job again a month from now...
