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Old 11-27-2010, 02:08 PM
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BodhiBenz1987 BodhiBenz1987 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
124 axles are a piece of cake to reboot, only a couple simple tools needed, no funnels or wine bottles necessary, except of course for the job well done celebration afterwards!

With the axle out off the vehicle, you carefully tap off with a hammer and punch/drift the stamped metal end cover from the inner CV. With that off you can access the external/OD C-clip which you remove with the proper tool. With that clip removed you cut the steel straps that secure the flexible rubber boot in place. Fold the rubber boot off the metal joint exterior and the entire CV mechanism will pull off the axle's splined end. Then you can remove the inner boot.

With the inner CV joint and boot removed the steel straps securing the outer flexible rubber boot are cut and the outer boot can be slid off the axle.

Then one can determine if the outer CV joint should be cleaned and re-lubed along with a new rubber boot or simply rebooted. If you are going to clean and re-lube, the CV grease is usually a real pain for any parts cleaner solvent but gasoline despite all the dangers is a very effective and inexpensive solvent for it. I usually use about a gallon in paint can to get most of it dissolved and out then another can to give that a rinse and then either a third can rinse or some carb or brake cleaner spray to get the last rinse.

Auto Zone rents a CV joint strap tool if you don't own one. Because these axles are so easy to do even generic boots that cost significantly less than MB OE parts are a reasonable alternative, you just need to find ones that are a decent fit. The good thing about the MB OE is they will likely last another 2-300,000 miles and you get MB grease and straps with the kit. Good luck!
Just a few clarifications/questions on the axles (my parts finally came in, had to wait out the holiday):
-I keep reading all these posts while searching about what a nightmare disassembling the axle is ... most of these are about w123 or other models, so am I to assume the w124's design is easier? The way the FSM describes the job (and from how you describe it), I don't understand why everyone wants to avoid it in these other threads?
-As for cleaning out the old grease, would mineral spirits be OK, with brake cleaner to touch up. I think that's how I did my wheel bearings and it worked well.
-I'm going to clean up the rust on the exterior of the axles, but wasn't sure if I should use any POR15 when finished. Maybe this is a silly thought, but would it affect the way the boot sits on there, or balance? Same with the differential ... it has some light surface rust on the top (the rest is protected by oil and more oil) and I was wondering if I ought to paint it after cleaning it up?

Edit to add another one: GREASE. The inner boots came with a tube each of MB grease, but for some reason they don't sell it separately at the dealer. The outers did not come with grease, and the parts guys said wheel bearing grease is fine. Can someone confirm this? If not, what's best? Also ... in the FSM is describes exact amounts of grease for "internal" and "external" grease fill. I believe 120g each. Even after reading through the job description, I don't understand what this means. 120g in the joint and 120 in the boot? Or 120 for inner joint and 120 for outer joint. Each inner kit came with 120g of grease.

That's all for now ... off to try to remove the diff and the wheel carriers from the old frame and hopefully get the latter on the "new" subframe.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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Last edited by BodhiBenz1987; 11-27-2010 at 03:53 PM.
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