Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor Bert
The most important factor is there be NO portion of seal material between the block and upper oil pan, as previously pointed out.
Previous advice about rolling/forming the seal with a hammer handle/wooden dowel/rolling pin is also wise. A section of PVC pipe works well too. When I was working on these 617's every day, I had a rear section of an old crankshaft, cut from a junk core, that only consisted of the two rear main journals. I would install and use as a fitting guide.
I cut the seal flush on one end and leave a slight amount sticking up on the other. Use a one-edged razor blade to trim off any 'threads' of fibers left that could get between the two case halves.
In my opinion, the seal is properly installed when the crank must be 'broken free' from rest with a slight amount of effort before it will turn and should stop abruptly when released. You should NOT have to use a prybar to turn the crankshaft.
The old Pontiac V8's with a rope seal were properly installed when it took 10-15 lbs/ft to break the crank loose from rest.
|
Thanks for the input Doktor Bert.
With your comments in mind I decided to measure the stiction of the crankshaft during the installation of the upper oil pan.
Here's what I did:-
1) I applied the heat resistant sealant around the edge of the upper oil pan and fitted it in place - I then let it cure as directed on the packet.
2) After the curing before the final tightening of the bolts (as per the instructions on the sealant packet) I measured the torque required to turn the crankshaft. This turned out to be about 21 ft-lbs / 29 Nm.
I measured this in two ways - with a torque wrench - slowly adjusting the torque until the break in the wrench coincided with the movement of the crank. The second way (used to confirm the first) was to calculate the torque needed by using a spring balance (scales) pulling at a known distance.
3) I then tightened down the upper oil pan and re-measured the torque of the crankshaft. It was about the same - 30 Nm (though still 29 Nm in places)
Note that this is just a measurement of the torque for spinning the crankshaft with the pistons fitted - the timing chain / oil pump / camshaft weren't connected.
So barely a noticeable difference in crankshaft stiction with the seal in place or (more or less) not in place.