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Old 02-21-2011, 08:34 AM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Inspecting the fuel pump

Look out for any obvious damage on the external and internal surfaces. Pay particular attention to the moving parts. I was lucky – the piston and plunger shaft were only lightly polished. The plunger shaft on my pump has a diameter of 5mm.



The strength of the suck of the pump will ultimately depend on the fit of the piston in the main body of the pump. If the pump seems to be worn out then I guess you are better off replacing it, though I guess a decent machine shop would be able to fit a liner and hone the internal diameter to suit your existing piston. Alternatively you'll find lots of information here on this forum concerning the use of electric fuel pumps as an alternative to the original mechanical.

Make sure that the non-return valves are as clean as you can get them and make sure that the little valves operate properly on their springs.



WARNING:- Be careful don't push too hard!
Attached Thumbnails
Refreshing the fuel pump on an OM617 (European spec – non turbo)-fuel_pump_gently_push_non_return_valves.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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Last edited by Stretch; 02-21-2011 at 08:50 AM.
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