Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim
Since we know you will want this donor engine to be running at it's absolute best after the swap, why not do all the tune up work before you pull the engine. You say it has white smoke at idle. Better get rid of that. You don't smell antifreeze in that white smoke, do you? But you really want to get rid of that white smoke! But surely get the valves adjusted and check the timing chain and see that it is in spec ...
...Another good reason in doing this maintenance now is that the engine is in a chassis and it will run. Do this or that, fire it up and be happy. It is difficult to run an engine on a garage floor, can be done, but it is nasty, dirty and noisy and it is difficult to tell if it is really building the power. Get it really running right, then pull it and do the changes you mentioned like gaskets, ect which really don't effect the running of the engine. Install your new gaskets, then clean it all up as much as possible, install it and you will be good to go, and happy that it started in an instant. ...
|
I totally agree with Jim (well the bits I'm not 100% with I've removed!) Good advice.
If the engine is already running and you don't intend to rebuild then you are saving yourself lots of time and effort by checking it out now.
If I were you I'd also do a leak down test in addition to what Jim has said.
As for storing an engine once it is out:-
Firstly be warned things rarely (in my experience) go to plan. If you think the engine will be out and in storage for six months you should store it like it will be wrapped up for 2 years! Now I'm not trying to jinx the project but you never know how it will go. At the very least you need a dry safe place for the engine. Safe meaning out of the way where you won't be dropping stuff on it.
Consider buying an engine stand - or an extra engine stand.
I'd actually do an oil change before you pull the engine and store it. It sounds a bit daft but sometimes old oil contains corrosive contaminants.
Shiny bits on a stored engine could rust. Valve cover off => grease the cam shaft lobes or better still put engine builders' assembly oil over the valve gear. I'd also consider removing the rocker arms so that the valves are shut for the duration of the storage.
You will probably need to flush your cooling system - and possibly replace the thermostat (that thermostat housing is a pain in the arse to fix if the screws are corroded - much easier on an engine that is out) when you put the engine in the new car anyway...
Am I mad? Is this over the top? Only you can decide - it is after all your engine.
Good luck and swamp us with loads of nice photos.