Often you can recover the data from these dead links using the Wayback Machine (http://wayback.archive.org). Almost everything on the internet gets archived. It is a great tool.

The link you found again was again broken, so I traveled back in time & got it:

http://web.archive.org/web/20090925054414/http://www.mindspring.com/~houlihan/merc/cruise.htm

Does this look familiar:

Home Repairs

Cruise Amp Repair

Inoperative or malfunctioning cruise control is often caused by a bad
amplifier. The amp can often be repaired simply by resoldering the
connections on the circuit board. I used this procedure to fix the amp
on my 1980 240D as well as my current 300D.

The amplifier is a small rectangular box measuring roughly 4" x 6" x 1".
It's usually located underneath the driver's side dash.....above your shins.
Remove the long connector attached to one end and then unscrew the
whole box and bring it to your shop. You'll need to remove the aluminum
part of the amp. Simply pry back the metal tabs that hold it on.





Slide the cover off and you'll expose the circuit board. Look carefully at
each component to make sure there aren't any burned parts. If so you'll
have to replace them or the whole amp. You probably won't find anything.





Get a good solder iron and heat it up. Make sure you have good lighting
and a comfortable chair. A magnifying glass will help. Your objective is
to quickly reheat each solder joint. A hot iron is essential. You need to
make sure that you re-melt the whole joint. You may notice a sort of
shockwave ripple across the joint as it melts. This is how I determined
......

I hope that some find this useful.
-Sveinn

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__________________
1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1997 F-350 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
1969 32' Luhrs Perkins HT3.54M Turbo Diesel
WVO & biodiesel when I can get it
(there is a de-facto ban on biodiesel in CA
- ask the Water Quality Resources Board why
underground storage isn't allowed for biodiesel -
heck, you can drink the stuff )