Once the input shaft cap is reassembled you can slide the steering worm end of this shaft into the working piston. Push the steering worm through to the first hole (that it meets) on the steering nut. Introduce 17 ball bearings into this hole whilst slowly turning the input shaft to the right.
Make sure that the ball bearings go the right way around the steering worm. From the perspective in the photograph above they go down and under the steering worm. When you get to ball 15, 16, or 17 you are likely to see the ball bearings appearing at the second hole in the steering nut (the hole on the right hand side in the picture above). If you have turned the steering worm to quickly / not added the ball bearings fast enough you might see the balls arriving too early – in which case it might be prudent to start again.
The final 7 ball bearings need to be set in grease in the detachable bearing races that you will shortly be re-attaching to the steering nut.
Torque the holding bolts for the detachable bearing races to 12 – 16 Nm.
Once assembled the whole steering worm / working piston friction needs to be measured again (just like when you took it to bits).
Like last time the torque required to move the input shaft should be in the range of 5 – 50Ncm
If this isn't achieved you are back to considering whether you want to buy a replacement steering box or not (see previous post).