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If, on the other hand, one does not have a pressure bleeder...
The method used for a century works if one rule is learned by the person in charge...
THE ONE RULE :::::
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It is the person at the bleeder nipple who is totally in charge of the distance the master cylinder piston is allowed to travel.
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Be sure to use a brush to get the dirt from the bleeder nipple.
A small hand toothbrush type brass bristle is ideal...
Then open the nipple to make sure it is not stuck. This is WITHOUT any pressure or movement at the brake pedal...
This is just prep so you know what to expect on turning pressure.
Use a solid closed end ( box ) wrench of the proper size for the nipple.
Do not use a ratchet mechanism of any sort because you can not reverse your pressure fast enough.
I have a proper size box end which I have bent to work easier with my hand position.
AFTER THE HELPER HAS DONE A FEW LIGHT PUMPS ON THE PEDAL...
AND IS HOLDING THAT PRESSURE...
THEN YOU OPEN AND CLOSE THE NIPPLE IN ONE MOVEMENT... YOU DON'T COUNT, LOOK AT THE FLUID... NOTHING EXCEPT OPEN AND CLOSE IT. " squirt " that operation is OVER....
If you have planned ahead and do not want any brake fluid in your face ... have placed a clear plastic tube over the end of the nipple and have it in a clear jar on the ground... then you may have gotten an idea of whether a lot of air is present.. not seeing a single flow of just fluid ....and the color or the inclusion of rust or trash.
You have to take your time. Follow the procedure, be sure your helper is trained also. It does not take a bunch of pressure on the brake pedal to do this...warn the helper of that.....
Letting too much fluid out allows the excess travel which Whunter spoke of... which is very bad and TOTALLY YOUR FAULT if you were the one at the nipples...
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