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Old 09-28-2013, 05:20 PM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
...continued...

With the C clips out the axial shafts can be removed. With these out of the way the axial seals can be taken out.




The differential gearset can be twisted around inside the casing and pulled free – despite what the FSM says about special rigs and stretching the casing this far...


...but not too far...





To remove the nut on the input shaft you need to break the peening and then get a deep 12 point 27 mm socket. I don't have a deep 12 point 27mm yet so I drilled and chiseled like a good 'un. I partly did it to just get on with the job and not waste time waiting for internet deliveries and partly because when turning the input shaft it was obvious something was wrong. I got that nut off in the end and then used a three legged puller to pull off the yoke.




The FSM reckons you need a special rig and a puller to push the input shaft into the casing. You could use a hammer and just knock the shaft into the casing – but if you do make sure you don't mushroom the end of the shaft. Use a bit of hard wood to protect it.


Using wood to protect both the case and the shaft I used my hydraulic press.




Attached Thumbnails
The W201 differential refresh thread-w201_018-axial-seal-removal.jpg   The W201 differential refresh thread-w201_018-three-legged-puller-input-yoke.jpg   The W201 differential refresh thread-w201_018-pressing-out-output-shaft-hydraulic-press1.jpg   The W201 differential refresh thread-w201_018-pressing-out-output-shaft-hydraulic-press2.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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