Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel
Dumb question: If I pull the trans and engine at the same time do I need to collapse the drive shaft?
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Well you would think that that would be a possible stage to skip wouldn't you?
Unfortunately in the real world the flex discs are usually really stuck to the output flange on the transmission. If you pull the engine out you are in danger of damaging the centre propshaft bearing support. For removal of the my M102 from my W201 I had to pull the engine + gearbox + front part of the sodding propshaft in one because the flex disc was really really stuck => so the message is you need those big spanners for that reason.
Second reason - when you come to fit the engine and transmission back in the car you need to jiggle the drive line about to make sure it is settled before you tighten everything back into place => rolling the car with weight on wheels backwards and forwards to make sure propshaft + engine mounts + differential + subframe are all "in agreement" with the best position. This is a cure for many a drive line vibration problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel
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Second dumb question: I'll be moving the trans and drive line to another car-bolting it up to a 617.952 in a one year newer 300 TD. Will this be easier once the engine and trans are out?
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I had to read that several times! I think the answer is => ALWAYS bolt transmission to engine before fitting both to the car - much safer way of not damaging transmission (at the cost of a greater likelihood of scratching body work on the way in)