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Originally Posted by feipoa
Great thread. Thanks a lot!
After reading everything, I have some questions/comments. HELP PLEASE!
I wish I had never read that statement. I just replaced my trailing arm bushings and sub-frame bushings. I used some grease I had in a bag. It is green-blue colour. Perhaps marine grease? Everything is already pressed in place. I used the cut-out method to get the old trailing arm bushings out, so I do not see how I can remove the new ones without damaging them. Should I take everything apart again and remove the grease, or just take the chance the bushings hold up? Can I spray in some degreaser to the sub-frame bushings to dissolve the grease? I really don't want to take this whole thing apart again. It took me 12 hours. I did replace the trailing arm bushings with the arms still in the vehicle using a portable vice.
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Well if you don't want to take it to bits again then don't! It might not be ideal (in my eyes) but now it has been done just move on and see how you go. Rubber degradation isn't going to happen over night - well it shouldn't do...
...I've had Febi rubber parts die within a winter before - but that was tie rod end boots not suspension bushings...
Quote:
Originally Posted by feipoa
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What is connected to what when you are determining they are straight? And how much have you jacked up your differential before jacking up your trailing arms to set the axel shafts horizontal? Right now, I have the differential mount bolted to the chassis with the differential bolted to the differential mount. Axel shafts are all bolted in place. Trailing arms are all bolted, but left only finger tight. Sub-frame bushing is not bolted on on yet. I cannot bolt the sub-frame bushing yet because I would not have access to torque the trailing arm bolts. Springs and shocks are removed. Drive shaft and flex discs removed.
My interpretation is to jack up the diff. a little bit so that everything is not hanging from the diff. mount at such a large angle. Jack it up high enough so that you still have access to torque the trailing arm bolts. Then place a level on the axel shaft and jack up the trailing arms with additional jacks until they have completely horizontal. Then use a string to measure the distance from differential mount to hub centre on each axel to confirm the distances are the same. Then torque. This is with everything in the car. Is this correct, or am I missing something?
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All you have to do is to look at the back end of the car - judge the angle of the axle shafts to be horizontal and you are good to go. If you happen to be working on a level surface (which is ideal for this job!) then use a spirit level on the axle shaft - or if you don't have one of those a 90 degree set square and a plumb bob would help judge vertical to horizontal.