thanks for the comments bill,
i marked the crank and hb with some nail polish. couldn't get good swing to punch with the radiator in place.
later ended up taking the radiator out to get a little wiggle room. should've just done that from the start...
the pins were indeed too long. the old ones with flush with the crank. probably 3-5mm shorter than the new ones.
the new ones were installed, then trimmed flush to the balancer.
i considered pre-cutting them to length, but ended up shortening them afterwards. i felt more comfortable cutting them down after insertion.
getting the dowel recesses lined up was the hardest part. left a few scars on the balancer from banging it into position.
the new bolt and spring washes call for 270-330Nm torque, with threads lubricated.
i went for 300. like trying to row a boat in mud.
hopefully the front of the block will remain oil free. time will tell
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom
Insure you aren't 180 deg off on damper to crank orientation (I don't see punch marks on your two parts). If so, the dowel hemispheres don't quite line up, at least as best I could tell on my 84 300D, using a mirror (AC condenser blocked view). I punched mine, but then got confused by prior punch marks and started installing 180 off, until I found the crank angle marks didn't jive w/ the valves.
One older post says replacement pins are sometimes too long, and you should always use new pins. As Rollguy, I pushed them in using the 3 crank washers and bolt. I have seen them a bit mushroom'ed after pressing in, so perhaps they were slightly too long.
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