Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen
Hi, I did use the orbital sander with 2000g paper and lots of water and did this as good as I could
(avoiding the pig tails, sanding by hand was a failure- too many scratches).
Then I used 400g, 600g and 800g lapping compound on a polishing cloth and
could get it smooth and even a bit shiny (don't ask me why 400g paste is finer than 2000g sandpaper)
Then I used a portercable orbital polisher and used speed cut, 1200g polish and then the final fine polish....
I had to go back once in a while in oder to remove 'bigger' scratches which I could not see after sanding.
I learned at least how to sand down orange peel clear coat and turn my spaying mess into a good quality surface.
Martin
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Color sanding is suppose to leave scratches in each stage. For instance, a 1200 grit will scratch and remove the orange peel, the 1500 will remove those scratches and leave finer scratches...3000 scratches will remove 2500 scratches and the first stage of buffing with remove those scratches...and the third stage of buffing will leave a black paint job or the clear coat free of swirl marks.
One who is experienced may skip several stages knowing what condition the paint is in and be able to do a fine job without taking so many pains. Or rather, if the orange peel is slight enough that a buffing compound removes it there is no need to use sandpaper.
I understand a wool pad with do that, however, my ignorant brother and his wool pad is the primary reason my car needs a paint job. He ground through the paint on several breaks while he owned the car. I suppose in the long run he saved me from making the same mistake and having to confess here rather than complain.
It appears you used lapping compound like a buffing compound. That's a first for me but if your work looks as good in person as it does in photos congratulations are in order. You have mine.