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  #16  
Old 09-16-2021, 05:01 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Same here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony H View Post
2nd the water separator. Best place to remove moisture is between the compressor and tank (that's the setup I use) with an after cooler and water separator since a hot tank of air makes it difficult to remove moisture. With my setup the tank is cool even after hrs of media blasting.
I have seen many home jobs that are show worthy but most of the work is the body work and prep-actually shooting it takes little time compared to the prep+ the polishing if you go that route. There are lots of U tube videos on the subject.
I routed the air from the pump to a '85 SE AC condenser, a water separator then back to the tank. After the tank I ran the air through a 'cool can,' constructed using a 5 gal bucket, ~35 ft of copper line through which air entered at the top and exited through the bottom (1) directly into a 1" NPT pipe. The pipe assembly consisted of an 4" pipe down from the bucket to a tee where the air was directed horizontally to a oil/water separation filter system. Extending from the bottom of the tee was a 6" pipe with a ball valve on the bottom.

I've only gotten a few drops from the ball valve so the condenser stage seems to be taking almost all the load, I'd guess 98+% of the moisture. I've gotten nothing at the oil/water separation assembly. I might have seen a mist once but not even a drop.

1. I filled the bucket with water and drop a jug of frozen water into the center each morning. This in honor those hot rodders who used a large coffee can and coil of copper line to cool and condense gasoline back in the 1960s.

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  #17  
Old 10-22-2021, 01:16 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
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Quick update:

I ended up buying a Campbell Hausfeld gun kit with a bigger gun (1.4mm nozzle) and smaller detail gun. I got is for less than $100/
It worked quite well for me as beginner and I could use my small Makita compressor which managed the job quite well, installed a desiccant dehumidifier.
I bought all the paint and cleaners from Tamco for around $230 for the window shelf and trunk lid: gray primer, black basecoat and clearcoat plus cleaners
I was lucky to have a couple of good warm days in October and the job is done.
Of course I did all the mistakes a beginner does and so it took longer to correct the problems.
The first primer layers were a mess until I managed to adjust the gun pressure and paint right. Campbell noted pressure for the LPHV gun with 40-50psi.... but this is obviously very wrong- way to much overspray with this pressure. I found that a pressure of 25-30psi worked much better. The small detail gun works best at around 15 psi. This gun is perfect for the narrow bottom shelf that I needed to paint while the big gun is good for the trunk lid.

I used POR15 putty as a filler (rear window shelf and the trunk lid corrosion portions followed by epoxi primer.

The trickiest parts were blending in the repair parts into the old clear coat.
I still don't know if this worked or not. I need to polish and see what comes out.

The trunk lid had too much orange peel in the clear coat and I decided to sand it slightly with 1000 and 2000 grit before I attempt to polish with the machine. I should probably wait a week or so until I can polish. Temperature are down to 50s now. The hardening will be slower.

The rear wind shield is installed by now and so far it is looking good.

Please comment.

Best, Martin
Attached Thumbnails
newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-10-22-1.00.44-pm.jpg   newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-10-22-1.01.45-pm.jpg   newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-10-22-1.04.38-pm.png   newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-10-22-1.12.49-pm.png   newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-10-22-1.12.31-pm.jpg  

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  #18  
Old 10-23-2021, 08:49 AM
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Looking good! The POR15 putty is some fun stuff to work with isn't it? When you first apply it you think, "Geez, this is going to be a mess to fix" but then as you sand/shape it's pretty amazing how easy it is to work. Takes primer extremely well also.

Did you epoxy primer the under side of the rusted area?
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  #19  
Old 10-23-2021, 08:49 AM
Shadetree
 
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I believe I could work with what you have there. Looks like a good start. You might want to splurge and get a piece of 2500g and 3000g wet before you start buffing. It will save you some time.
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2021, 11:28 PM
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Martin, I hope it is turning out to your satisfaction, I wish I had seen this thread earlier. Was the rust treatment system you used a urethane that will permanently seal the metal before the POR-15 putty was applied? Kent at ************** likes Miracle Paint for this, then he uses Bondo brand "short strand filler" which is a two-part catalyst mix (not the stuff we typically think of as Bondo that sands off into pink powder and contracts/cracks over time) to smooth or fill any gaps. Sometimes the Miracle Paint actually "fills" in a little bit and smooths over the surface, and can be sanded down/reapplied as necessary.

The original 040 may be a single-stage (no clear coat). The advantage, while clear coat is an extra layer of protection, is that you don't ever have to worry about peeling clear coat or sanding/buffing through it. When you compound the single-stage, you'll have some color residue on the pad/towel.

It looks like you picked a system/path and got it figured out. I also have recently used automotivetouchup.com brand spray, which is an exact match to my body color (and metallic at that). They automatically include a clear coat can, even if you don't need it (maybe save it for another purpose), and offer primer as well (I'll use it to paint the inside of my Euro light housings to match the cladding). They also have an add-on spray trigger which makes the can more controllable. It certainly wasn't as fine as an Iwata airbrush, but with tedious masking and "feathering" I was able to "blend" parts of the engine bay where I performed extensive rust remediation. The casual observer would not have a clue.
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  #21  
Old 11-16-2021, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Looking good! The POR15 putty is some fun stuff to work with isn't it? When you first apply it you think, "Geez, this is going to be a mess to fix" but then as you sand/shape it's pretty amazing how easy it is to work. Takes primer extremely well also.

Did you epoxy primer the under side of the rusted area?
Hi Mike,
thanks for the tip with POR 15 putty. Indeed this stuff seems to be super durable and workability is excellent. I also used it for the other rusted spots.
And painting primer over is no issue at all. Works well.
Epoxy primer on the underside of the rusted areas: You mean the double layered shelf..... prime the underside of the through the round openings?
(No epoxy primer but I used KBS rust real with a brush and treated the underside of the rusted out portions. I did not use the Tamco epoxy primer there)
Or did you mean my 2 very large rusty spots in the middle of the trunk lid?
(No I did not do anything from no the underside which has the gray paint. The gray was fine and undisturbed...)

See attached the finished trunk

Thanks, Martin
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newbie: Spray gun advise for Painting my W126 500SEL  rear-screen-shot-2021-11-16-2.06.31-pm.png  
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  #22  
Old 11-16-2021, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
I believe I could work with what you have there. Looks like a good start. You might want to splurge and get a piece of 2500g and 3000g wet before you start buffing. It will save you some time.


Hi, I did use the orbital sander with 2000g paper and lots of water and did this as good as I could
(avoiding the pig tails, sanding by hand was a failure- too many scratches).

Then I used 400g, 600g and 800g lapping compound on a polishing cloth and
could get it smooth and even a bit shiny (don't ask me why 400g paste is finer than 2000g sandpaper)
Then I used a portercable orbital polisher and used speed cut, 1200g polish and then the final fine polish....
I had to go back once in a while in oder to remove 'bigger' scratches which I could not see after sanding.
I learned at least how to sand down orange peel clear coat and turn my spaying mess into a good quality surface.
Martin
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2021, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewPT View Post
Martin, I hope it is turning out to your satisfaction, I wish I had seen this thread earlier. Was the rust treatment system you used a urethane that will permanently seal the metal before the POR-15 putty was applied? Kent at ************** likes Miracle Paint for this, then he uses Bondo brand "short strand filler" which is a two-part catalyst mix (not the stuff we typically think of as Bondo that sands off into pink powder and contracts/cracks over time) to smooth or fill any gaps. Sometimes the Miracle Paint actually "fills" in a little bit and smooths over the surface, and can be sanded down/reapplied as necessary.

The original 040 may be a single-stage (no clear coat). The advantage, while clear coat is an extra layer of protection, is that you don't ever have to worry about peeling clear coat or sanding/buffing through it. When you compound the single-stage, you'll have some color residue on the pad/towel.

It looks like you picked a system/path and got it figured out. I also have recently used automotivetouchup.com brand spray, which is an exact match to my body color (and metallic at that). They automatically include a clear coat can, even if you don't need it (maybe save it for another purpose), and offer primer as well (I'll use it to paint the inside of my Euro light housings to match the cladding). They also have an add-on spray trigger which makes the can more controllable. It certainly wasn't as fine as an Iwata airbrush, but with tedious masking and "feathering" I was able to "blend" parts of the engine bay where I performed extensive rust remediation. The casual observer would not have a clue.

Yes I used KBS which I believe is a urethane base paint system. It might be similar to POR15 or Miracle paint. The KBS dries rock hard on the metal if applied correctly. I know Kent is using the miracle paint for his 'fiberglassing' tricks. I am rather using my welding skills here. I don't think that fiberglassing is as strong as a good weld and it won't last that long (my 2 cents).

040 Single stage: Does a single stage pain have the same appearance and look like the base/clear coat?
I think my car has clear coat on but I am not 100% sure. How would I see the difference?

Martin
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2021, 06:00 PM
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Apply a bit of "cleaner wax" to an original painted area. If the polishing cloth you are using picks up the color of the paint then it is single stage.

Not necessarily a 100% test since if the clear coat has completely worn off the base coat will come off but it's a good 90% of the time test.


Color code 040 is black single stage in the original paint. Doesn't mean the car hasn't been re-sprayed somewhere in the past with a clear coat added.
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  #25  
Old 11-19-2021, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Apply a bit of "cleaner wax" to an original painted area. If the polishing cloth you are using picks up the color of the paint then it is single stage.

Not necessarily a 100% test since if the clear coat has completely worn off the base coat will come off but it's a good 90% of the time test.


Color code 040 is black single stage in the original paint. Doesn't mean the car hasn't been re-sprayed somewhere in the past with a clear coat added.
Hi Mike,

040 being a single stage paint originally.... That is interesting.
I know that my car was clear coated then, probably only the sides as there is the fine colored stripe along the car and a funny small flower in the rear corner.
I heard that the stripes were 'fashionable' at some point in time but I did not think about it. But now that you mentioned that the clear coat was not original it dawned on me. Do you know anything about this fashion?

The roof might still be the original color without clear because for some reason the clear coat stopped.
Can a single stage paint be a s shiny as clear coat? Probably.

Martin
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  #26  
Old 11-26-2021, 09:45 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,838
Color sanding as I understand it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Hi, I did use the orbital sander with 2000g paper and lots of water and did this as good as I could
(avoiding the pig tails, sanding by hand was a failure- too many scratches).

Then I used 400g, 600g and 800g lapping compound on a polishing cloth and
could get it smooth and even a bit shiny (don't ask me why 400g paste is finer than 2000g sandpaper)
Then I used a portercable orbital polisher and used speed cut, 1200g polish and then the final fine polish....
I had to go back once in a while in oder to remove 'bigger' scratches which I could not see after sanding.
I learned at least how to sand down orange peel clear coat and turn my spaying mess into a good quality surface.
Martin

Color sanding is suppose to leave scratches in each stage. For instance, a 1200 grit will scratch and remove the orange peel, the 1500 will remove those scratches and leave finer scratches...3000 scratches will remove 2500 scratches and the first stage of buffing with remove those scratches...and the third stage of buffing will leave a black paint job or the clear coat free of swirl marks.


One who is experienced may skip several stages knowing what condition the paint is in and be able to do a fine job without taking so many pains. Or rather, if the orange peel is slight enough that a buffing compound removes it there is no need to use sandpaper.



I understand a wool pad with do that, however, my ignorant brother and his wool pad is the primary reason my car needs a paint job. He ground through the paint on several breaks while he owned the car. I suppose in the long run he saved me from making the same mistake and having to confess here rather than complain.



It appears you used lapping compound like a buffing compound. That's a first for me but if your work looks as good in person as it does in photos congratulations are in order. You have mine.

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