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Old 03-29-2004, 08:44 PM
Eric Eliel Eric Eliel is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: So. California
Posts: 744
Just "Renewed" the instrument panel, lights and gauges and odometer

Pulled my instrument panel from the 84 300D this weekend. Made up a set of pullers from wood and a coat hanger. The odometer was working intermitedly (mostly not at all), there were spider webs behind the plastic instrument panel, the gauge needles were faded, one of two burned out lights and the dimmer was flaky.

The syptoms of the slipping odometer is sometimes it would work, which means a gear is slipping, rather than a broken plastic gear.

The odometer fix was tideous. After taking apart the center speedo section, the decision was how to access the odometer numbers. I didn't think I could pull the dial off without ruining the speedo needle. I went after the "locking" star wheel shaft which holds the number dials in place. I used an old Sears Dremel knock off (which is on its last legs after 35 years) to slightly knock down the crimp on the shaft. After the crimp was "ground" down, the shaft slid out. I don't think you can do a neat job removing the shaft without a Dremel tool. Then the main shaft brass bushing needs to be removed. This can be done using a small screwdriver to wedge and pry it off.

Once the main shaft is removed the numbers will come tumbling out with the offending slipping metal gear. You might be wise to keep track of the sequence. When the main numbers come tumbling out there is a very small WHITE star wheel which connects the main numbers with the trip odometer. WATCH WHICH DIRECTION THE STAR WHEEL IS ORIENTED SO IT GOES BACK IN CORRECTLY. Luckily I had an extra speedo, guess what I had to do! Clean all the numbers with 409 or Simple Green. The metal gear is not supposed to slip. The gear will already be off the main shaft, rough up the shaft with a very small file. It didn't take much. The gear is pot metal and will adhere to the roughed up shaft pretty well.

Put back together. You might want to make note that when the odometer is CORRECTLY put back together the trip odometer AND the odometer will change numbers at the same time when passing 9. Mine is off a little and I forgot to watch this. One of the web threads mentioned using red loctite on the gear, I don't know how you would do this without getting it on the number wheels and the side of the case. I tried, not sure if the loctite will be effective over a period of time.

Now is the time to make sure you don't break the law and accidently change the mileage. The roughed up shafts are a tell tale sign someone dinked around with the odometer.

Put the rest of the speedo back together. I cleaned out the spider webs, the plastic etc. Glued cracked plastic edge with super glue.

I changed all the light bulbs before the instrument panel was put back in the car. I also tested them because some of the orignal bulb's "leads" were soldered in. The new ones are not soldered. I checked all the bulbs before installation.

I also painted all the gauges with a Red Flourescent model paint. Took two coats.

The dash rheostat was giving me inconsistent lighting. After I burned up a couple of fuses, I took the instrument panel back out and discovered that the rheostat was bad AND was jumpered with bare wire between the circuit board and the rheostat. (bad fix from a previous mechanic, car's previous lifetime). I tested this with my VOM. I used the rheostat from the old inst. panel off my wrecked 300D. Note: the rheostat is a press fit onto a 2 prong extending from the circuit board. I thoroughly cleaned the "new" rheostat with electronic parts cleaner to get all the oil out of it (from a leaking oil gauge).

New rheostat works properly and I had extra fuses. Happy Day.

When you plug the circular electric dash connector back in, make a note to orient the plug correctly. Mine does not have indentations, so you CAN rotate slightly and insert the plug incorrectly, resulting in blown fuses. Poor design if you ask me. I marked it with a felt pen and carefully replaced.

Instrument Panel is back in, odometer works, lights work, gauge needles look a little too bright red (should have used a flourescent orange).

Took car into mechanic today for a "loaner" tumbler set. Tumbler AND the lock mechanism iswas sticking. I had this problem on my last 300D and waited too long. So I had to get a rental car today. Lock mech will be in tomorrow with a good loaner tumbler while the new one comes from back east. I figured I dodged the drill out rountine and probably saved some money. Its all good. Night gentleman!
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Last edited by Eric Eliel; 03-29-2004 at 08:50 PM.
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