Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-29-2004, 09:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: So. California
Posts: 744
Just "Renewed" the instrument panel, lights and gauges and odometer

Pulled my instrument panel from the 84 300D this weekend. Made up a set of pullers from wood and a coat hanger. The odometer was working intermitedly (mostly not at all), there were spider webs behind the plastic instrument panel, the gauge needles were faded, one of two burned out lights and the dimmer was flaky.

The syptoms of the slipping odometer is sometimes it would work, which means a gear is slipping, rather than a broken plastic gear.

The odometer fix was tideous. After taking apart the center speedo section, the decision was how to access the odometer numbers. I didn't think I could pull the dial off without ruining the speedo needle. I went after the "locking" star wheel shaft which holds the number dials in place. I used an old Sears Dremel knock off (which is on its last legs after 35 years) to slightly knock down the crimp on the shaft. After the crimp was "ground" down, the shaft slid out. I don't think you can do a neat job removing the shaft without a Dremel tool. Then the main shaft brass bushing needs to be removed. This can be done using a small screwdriver to wedge and pry it off.

Once the main shaft is removed the numbers will come tumbling out with the offending slipping metal gear. You might be wise to keep track of the sequence. When the main numbers come tumbling out there is a very small WHITE star wheel which connects the main numbers with the trip odometer. WATCH WHICH DIRECTION THE STAR WHEEL IS ORIENTED SO IT GOES BACK IN CORRECTLY. Luckily I had an extra speedo, guess what I had to do! Clean all the numbers with 409 or Simple Green. The metal gear is not supposed to slip. The gear will already be off the main shaft, rough up the shaft with a very small file. It didn't take much. The gear is pot metal and will adhere to the roughed up shaft pretty well.

Put back together. You might want to make note that when the odometer is CORRECTLY put back together the trip odometer AND the odometer will change numbers at the same time when passing 9. Mine is off a little and I forgot to watch this. One of the web threads mentioned using red loctite on the gear, I don't know how you would do this without getting it on the number wheels and the side of the case. I tried, not sure if the loctite will be effective over a period of time.

Now is the time to make sure you don't break the law and accidently change the mileage. The roughed up shafts are a tell tale sign someone dinked around with the odometer.

Put the rest of the speedo back together. I cleaned out the spider webs, the plastic etc. Glued cracked plastic edge with super glue.

I changed all the light bulbs before the instrument panel was put back in the car. I also tested them because some of the orignal bulb's "leads" were soldered in. The new ones are not soldered. I checked all the bulbs before installation.

I also painted all the gauges with a Red Flourescent model paint. Took two coats.

The dash rheostat was giving me inconsistent lighting. After I burned up a couple of fuses, I took the instrument panel back out and discovered that the rheostat was bad AND was jumpered with bare wire between the circuit board and the rheostat. (bad fix from a previous mechanic, car's previous lifetime). I tested this with my VOM. I used the rheostat from the old inst. panel off my wrecked 300D. Note: the rheostat is a press fit onto a 2 prong extending from the circuit board. I thoroughly cleaned the "new" rheostat with electronic parts cleaner to get all the oil out of it (from a leaking oil gauge).

New rheostat works properly and I had extra fuses. Happy Day.

When you plug the circular electric dash connector back in, make a note to orient the plug correctly. Mine does not have indentations, so you CAN rotate slightly and insert the plug incorrectly, resulting in blown fuses. Poor design if you ask me. I marked it with a felt pen and carefully replaced.

Instrument Panel is back in, odometer works, lights work, gauge needles look a little too bright red (should have used a flourescent orange).

Took car into mechanic today for a "loaner" tumbler set. Tumbler AND the lock mechanism iswas sticking. I had this problem on my last 300D and waited too long. So I had to get a rental car today. Lock mech will be in tomorrow with a good loaner tumbler while the new one comes from back east. I figured I dodged the drill out rountine and probably saved some money. Its all good. Night gentleman!

__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Last edited by Eric Eliel; 03-29-2004 at 09:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-29-2004, 09:55 PM
wolf_walker's Avatar
Zen And The Art Of Diesel
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 2,050
That's odd about the circular plug, my 83 seemed to be keyed, I never looked close, just put it in and out half a dozen times, never got it off.. Wierd..
__________________
One more Radar Lover gone...
1982 VW Caddy diesel 406K 1.9L AAZ
1994 E320 195K
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-29-2004, 10:10 PM
FrankM's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Location: NH
Posts: 329
If anyone has to do this job again, just slide a drill bit in the hole made when removing the numbers shaft.
This will hold all the numbers in position and make this job very easy..
__________________

79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-30-2004, 01:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: So. California
Posts: 744
Frank,

That was a great idea that would have saved me a whole bunch of time! The diameter of the shaft is 3mm. I measured it last night. You'll need a drill bit or rod material 3mm or less in thickness and about 70mm in length. The key is then getting the small brass bushing off the main numbers shaft.

This is why this forum is terrific. Better ideas and solutions.
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-30-2004, 02:19 PM
FrankM's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Location: NH
Posts: 329
Quote:
Originally posted by Eric Eliel
Frank, The key is then getting the small brass bushing off the main numbers shaft.
I take a small center punch and lightly tap the shaft end at the brass bushing. As the shaft moves out of the bushing, the light tapping allows you to stop the shaft in time to lift the bushing off and insert the drill bit.
Now tapping the drill bit pushes the shaft out.
To install the bushing after I am done, I use a small socket that covers the bushing, yet allows the shaft to enter the socket. I rest the opposite end of the shaft on the vise anvil for a solid stop.
I have done many of these odo's and I still like doing them...
__________________

79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-28-2004, 02:21 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Varies
Posts: 4,802
Thanks, this thread helped me get my odometer working today.

I cleaned the digits with a Wet One and touched-up the needle color with an orange magic marker. Checked and cleaned all of the bulbs in the cluster and tested the odometer with an electric drill until the odometer turned over 10 miles. My drill only goes 40MPH.

If you can turn the pot metal gear and odometer digits while holding the brass gear and shaft still, you found the problem. I should have taken a picture.

I knurled the shaft, I don't see how you could reliably put locktight on it. The punch and drill bit method did it for me.

Last edited by TwitchKitty; 05-28-2004 at 02:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-21-2004, 09:46 PM
Mooger's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Loudon, NH
Posts: 10
please describe the "puller "and removing the panel

you made for the panel? My odom shat before I bought the car and I'm just trying to get this "81300d up to speed. I've read some threads that talk about fixing this but it seems a bit daunting. I suppose that changes once you have the speedo in your hand to see what might need to be done.

thanks,- kevin
__________________
Kevin

'81 300D- (unknown mi. over 225,000mi)
'83 BMW R100RT
2 gas mobiles
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-22-2004, 12:44 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Theres a CD on Ebay I bought

that shows this process..........
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-11-2005, 04:35 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Berkeley, California
Posts: 214
Niice... I just repaired my odometer... pot-metal gear was slipping on the shaft... I didn't even need to remove the shaft entirely, there was enough exposed to rough up the silver gear's contact point (with a drill) once I removed the brass bushing and slid the shaft to flush with the housing. I already had the odo out, and the whole job took me maybe 10 minutes. Woot. Back to the 'count up'... The 240D I decided to keep (sold my 300D Greaser, thanks very much) shows 267K miles and is still going 'strong'.

Thanks for the tips on the odo-repair. Cheers!

Ash
__________________
Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales
---------510-331-4118-----------
1982 240D - (272,000)
1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid"
1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-27-2005, 12:42 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Varies
Posts: 4,802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Byrnzoil
PIC - Red arrow points to spur gear
Picture contributed by Mister Byrnzoil in this thread:
Speedo works but odometer don't

Blue arrow points to the pot metal gear that slips on the shaft.
Attached Thumbnails
Just "Renewed" the instrument panel, lights and gauges and odometer-odoside1.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-27-2005, 01:11 AM
Mister Byrnzoil's Avatar
Currently Benzless :(
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 777
heres a pic from the top

shows the grey metal gear clearly...

__________________
Cheers,
Robert
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-27-2005, 01:44 AM
H-townbenzoboy's Avatar
Now Y2K Compliant
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,291
Could you post instructions on how you repaired your odometer with pictures detailing every step? I for one could really use such a thing, as could other W123 owners.
-Joe
__________________
Board Member of MBCA|Houston

81 MB 300SD, 82 MB 300D Turbo (sold), 04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-27-2005, 02:29 AM
Johnhef's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Frederick, Md
Posts: 4,540
sort of on topic- I had the cluster out in my 124 today, wonderful, saw someone had put 5w bulbs in it and melted it. I put the 3w's in and its back to its usual dim self. I have LED bulbs in my 123 cluster (had to replace the housing on the one, no light came through- too far melted) I guess I'll just switch them over for the time being untill I can order another set.

Also anyone have a good source for the temp display? the bulb on mine was burned out and the LCD display was broken internally.
__________________


1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-28-2005, 03:32 PM
miamimike's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Miami,Fl.--a northern suburb of Havana,Cuba
Posts: 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnhef
sort of on topic- I had the cluster out in my 124 today, wonderful, saw someone had put 5w bulbs in it and melted it. I put the 3w's in and its back to its usual dim self. I have LED bulbs in my 123 cluster (had to replace the housing on the one, no light came through- too far melted) I guess I'll just switch them over for the time being untill I can order another set.

Also anyone have a good source for the temp display? the bulb on mine was burned out and the LCD display was broken internally.
I rectified this problem of Dim Dash Lights on my 240 and 300s cheaply. They sell these little Led lights -they come in a pair of two and with a long wire that plugs into to your cigerette lighter -I positioned the two little lights on both sides of my dash to decrease the glare focusing them on the gauges. They swivel for adjustment and really brighten up the dash panel. I routed the wire on the right side of my speedometer housing as inconspicously as posible. Not perfect but a 80% improvement in visibility. The light set costs about $10 at pep boys, auto zone or Discount Auto(now advanced auto) Whitney probably has theses lights also. Check out this posibility.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-21-2005, 12:01 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Varies
Posts: 4,802
Links to a couple threads on How to Remove the Instrument Cluster.

How to remove instrument cluster.

How big a deal to remove the instrument cluster on '83 240D?


Last edited by TwitchKitty; 03-21-2005 at 12:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page