I checked my odometer a few weeks back just for grins when I had the cluster out and i was trying to diagnose my non funtional temp guage.....

odometer was working but gear would slip with little effort..so I knew it was going to happen if I did nothing.

drove out the shaft slipped in a simmular sized drill bit to hold gears in place...

Used a cold chisel and a screwdriver handle to tap it to put 45 degree divits about 8 points across where the gear rides...slid shaft back in and taped locking piece back over the end to retain it...took all of 10 minutes once speedo was off cluster. really a very easy fix.....and one I know I will never have to deal with again.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

My odometer started slipping midway through my last tank of fuel. From what I had already read on the forum, this caused me neither surprise nor anxiety.

Removal, repair, and replacement were straightforward, thanks to the information in this and related thread.

I also chose not to use any Loctite threadlocker, opting instead for the "knurling" route. I used a pair of long nose Vise-Grip pliers, using the part of the jaws that has straight teeth (not the diamond pattern near the tip), and applied them so that the teeth were parallel to the axis of the shaft. Squeeze, rotate shaft, squeeze, rotate shaft, etc. It did a plenty good job of displacing metal to bring up a nice set of longitudinal ridges on the shaft, and the pot metal wheel is now on there with a death grip.

This may be the first time that I have used a pair of Vise-Grips to intentionally mangle a part!

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A couple of other threads have mentioned problems with the speedometer needle jumping if the needle is moved with your fingers or a tool. Be careful with the speedometer while it is removed from the cluster. Do not move the needle or it will not indicate speeds below 20-30mph and the indicated speed will vary as the needle swings back and forth.

I see.

Just a comment on holding the gear on the shaft. I'm sure other ways work such as super glue, I 've always been afraid I would get some where it didn't belong and really gum up the works. I use a pair of small bolt cutters to notch the shaft, this of course must be done with care but it doesn't take much. The repair has held up on my 79 240D for almost 10 years. I've done several this way.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I use needle nose vice grips.
and the shaft that pivots for the trip reset, can be used to push out the shaft, and keep the numbers aligned...
odds are good that you will knock the trip lever shaft loose doing all this anyway.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

make sure to pull the speedo cable a couple of inches through the firewall--if not you'll have trouble getting to the back side and most of all you'll really have trouble rethreading the spedo cable when you're done.