Reduction Gear Starters
I am just another statistic with the cold weather starting blues. It's time to put my car away for winter anyway, but I cannot get it started to do so! It appears that around 20 degrees F is my go / no-go point. I've read all recent posts and so know about the glow timing, etc. Also, I had a warm day Sunday and got it started- then filled up with #1 with tank near empty and drove a 180 mile round trip. But now we're in another cold snap, and I can't get started. At least this time, with #1 in the tank, I'm getting "chugging" and white smoke, but there's never quite enough combustion for the engine to keep running.
The "series" glow plug setup on the old 617 engines is really pathetic! Last night in the dark I noticed the resistive wires between plugs 1-2 and 4-5 glowing quite a bright red- good indication that all plugs are glowing too- but these wires are simply wasting power that could otherwise be going to the GP's.
So, two improvements are in store for Pearl. The 12 volt parallel glow plug upgrade kit, and a new starter. Which leads to my question- can someone explain reduction gear starters to me? Someone mentioned they're using a "Mean Green" starter- I checked their site- looks interesting, but wouldn't a reduction gear on a starter result in slower cranking? More cranking torque yes, but reduction in actual output shaft speed? So is this really a good way to go, or should I simply go for the MB Heavy Duty replacement?
My '89 VW Golf Diesel had a reduction starter (I only know this because a mechanic told me). This car always started great, and it's go / no-go point was more like -15 degrees F, and even then, with some work, it would always start. This car was laid to rest at 360,000 Miles due to floor rusting out and in it's whole lifetime I had to replace the starter twice, and it was a Bosch reduction gear starter. I just don't understand why, or if these would be better than a normal starter.
Dave
'76 White 300D W115 "Pearl"
|