You have to get under the car to get the bolts on the exhaust header flanges (bolts the pipes to the headers). The exhaust header bolts can be replaced, no sweat. However, it would have made things easier if you had used penetrating oil on them first and not broken any...still, some studs screwed out of the head on me too.

You can either leave the intake manifold and fuel injection bolted to the head for removal, or do what I did and unbolt the intake manifold bolts and loosen the intake manifold support brackets from underneith the car. This is a bit trickey, but I think it is ultimately easier than undoing everything like the Bowden cable and such from the fuel injection system. Also, it is easier to lift and reinstall the head without the intake attached, as it is far lighter.

I opted to replace the timing chain tensioner and chain guides, so I pulled the front chain cover off the motor, which relieved me of having to pull that chain guide stud on the front top of the head. This requires a special tool like a slide hammer that screws into the stud. However, you have to have the special tool that locks the flywheel in place to get enouch torque to undo the harmonic balancer bolt and later on re-torque it during reassembly.

You still need to check the head surface for flatness with a machined straight edge and feeler gages, and you should replace the valve seals and re-lap the valves while you have the head off.

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On the plains of hesitation bleach the bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory, sat down to wait, and waiting -- died