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  #1  
Old 07-11-2005, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
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started removing the head on 87 300e

i started removing the head on my 87 300e which had oil in the water.

the plugs all looked fine. and the cylinders compression was starting from
the distributor 165/165/165/190/170/165


I broke a few exhaust studs and a few of them came out and a few had the bolt come out.... any suggestions on removing the bottom of the exhaust headder from the pipes... also any suggestions on the studs.. none are broken off inside the head all have atleast an inch remaining... any ideas on removal?


also any suggestions on the intake removal?

I ran some gunk engine cleaner through the oil and then changed the oil before i started and the head is beauitful...

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Old 07-12-2005, 02:16 AM
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Just did this job myself

You have to get under the car to get the bolts on the exhaust header flanges (bolts the pipes to the headers). The exhaust header bolts can be replaced, no sweat. However, it would have made things easier if you had used penetrating oil on them first and not broken any...still, some studs screwed out of the head on me too.

You can either leave the intake manifold and fuel injection bolted to the head for removal, or do what I did and unbolt the intake manifold bolts and loosen the intake manifold support brackets from underneith the car. This is a bit trickey, but I think it is ultimately easier than undoing everything like the Bowden cable and such from the fuel injection system. Also, it is easier to lift and reinstall the head without the intake attached, as it is far lighter.

I opted to replace the timing chain tensioner and chain guides, so I pulled the front chain cover off the motor, which relieved me of having to pull that chain guide stud on the front top of the head. This requires a special tool like a slide hammer that screws into the stud. However, you have to have the special tool that locks the flywheel in place to get enouch torque to undo the harmonic balancer bolt and later on re-torque it during reassembly.

You still need to check the head surface for flatness with a machined straight edge and feeler gages, and you should replace the valve seals and re-lap the valves while you have the head off.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger
I ran some gunk engine cleaner through the oil and then changed the oil before i started...
Really!?? Are you talking about the same Gunk that you spray on the engine?
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2005, 02:20 PM
LarryBible
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For the exhaust flange use an 18" or 24" extension from the bottom while holding the other end with an end wrench from the top.

I have never had trouble with the exhaust manifold studs, but since you still have an inch, you need a stud remover from the tool truck. It fits on a ratchet and has four round pins that are forced onto the stud when you apply torque with the ratchet. When going back together get some new studs, don't get the bright idea to use bolts. The stud is the only way to go in an aluminum head. Bolts are more convenient to assemble, but you will really have trouble the next time you take it off.

Leaving the intake in the car is far preferred in my mind because you don't risk breaking so many connectors and cables of all kinds. It also makes the head very easy to lift off. Some of the intake manifold nuts will have to be accessed from underneath with an extension and socket.

Good luck,

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