My 2 tank SVO conversion - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

andmoon · #1 03-24-2006, 01:37 PM

nice!
Maybe if you switch the FPHE to be the last item before the IP you'll get more heat.
Did you go w/ 2 6 ports to keep the LP pushing instead of sucking?

hockeynut · #2 03-24-2006, 03:19 PM

Looks great! I have been looking over all (most) available kits out there. Is yours a kit or a complete DIY gathering your own components?

Some of the nicer ones out there are very expensive (baffled tanks, nice electronics, etc) and use electric heating devices that can tap a poor 240D alternator dry. I am trying to avoid the electric heating thing if possible.

bgkast · #3 03-24-2006, 03:19 PM

My diagram is hard to follow, but I have switched the route around so that the FPHE is the last component. Before I was only getting 110 F before the IP. That is what leads me to the theory about the filter holding cooler fuel than the rest of the system for the first few miles after the switch over. I need to go for a good, long drive for a better test.

You are correct about the 2 6 ports. I wanted to share the lift pump and have it push through both primary filters.

biopete · #4 03-24-2006, 04:16 PM

make the tank heat exchanger yourself? Is that gas line?

Regarding your heat, how does the car run? Better or worse on WVO? Reason i ask is if your car is running better on WVO , you are may be getting more heat that you expect. Friend and i use same oil, his car gets vory hot, in tank temp is 200F before the HIH to the engine. His car runs much better on WVO. I have heat issues and car does not run as good on WVO as it does on D2 or B20 until the tank reaches 130F .

Have you considered injection line heaters? I'm going for some of those.

Another thing i found helps a great deal in heat up is if the tank is only half full. I have a greasel main tank heater. Not sure if they suck or but it takes like an hour plus of highway driving to reach 130.

Also, are you sure your gauge can read accurately (remember gauge thread?).

I am happy spring is almost here. Been letting her rest.

Note to others , spring is perfect time to install system. Plenty of time to work out heating bugs.

Thanks bgkast. Tis a real treat.

bgkast · #5 03-24-2006, 05:09 PM

I find my gauge readings slightly suspect because it very slowly climbs to 145 even though the sensor is just after the FPHE. It should jump right up to 145 or more when the switch is flipped and the warm fuel straight out of the heat exchanger passes the sensor. The car seems to rum more quietly and smoothly on veg with a very, very slight decrease in power.

I did make the in-tank heat exchanger. It is a "Sweetwater" heat coil from aquatic ecosystems and 2 compression fittings to seal it up. The coil was only $9 and is made from aluminum. I am quite happy with it. My tank gets nice and toasty.

BigBen · #6 03-24-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I did make the in-tank heat exchanger. It is a "Sweetwater" heat coil from aquatic ecosystems and 2 compression fittings to seal it up. The coil was only $9 and is made from aluminum. I am quite happy with it. My tank gets nice and toasty.

It seems you answered my query as I was typing!

But will aluminum hold on to the compression fittings for long?

Thanks,

bgkast · #7 03-24-2006, 06:32 PM

I don't see why they would start to leak. The only problem would be fatigue of the coil near the compression fittings due to oil sloshing. To avoid this I put baffles in the tank and made a bracket that surrounds and supports the coil.

biopete · #8 03-24-2006, 06:44 PM

Sweetwater heater coil. If its safe enough for the fishies, i guess its safe enough for me

I may use that in a spare tire tank and have the tips stick through the top of the tank. Is it 8" tall? Also, i wonder if there is a filter that would fit in it?, Maybe a VW A2 or A3 one?