Water separating filters will not remove suspended water. To remove suspended water you must gently heat the oil (to prevent heat created currents from mixing the oil). The water will eventually settle out of the warmed and thinned oil.

To check for suspended water heat a heavy cast iron skillet then pour a bit of oil in the hot pan. If you see small bubbles you have water present. Do NOT try this if you can see water present or you risk burning your self with flying oil when the large amount of water turns to steam.


There is a lot more to running a car on veg oil than it seems, and you risk serious engine damage if you do not pay attention to them all.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

My general xVO plan is a cold tank in the rear of the car with no return line. A gearhead oil pump to push the oil through a pre-filter (automotive oil filter likely) and into a one gallon tank in the engine box. All oil heating will be done up front to minimize several issues and a second spin-on fuel filter will be mounted in parallel with the first. This way the only the IP and injectors ever see xVO which should make the purge time very short. I plan on doing the whole thing with SS if possible as all the issues I have seen appear to be related to copper corrosion.
-nB

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'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

I recently did a home made conversion on my 2nd 300cd this is the second conversion I've done, the first was a Neoteric SingleTank kit, that I'll probably end up cannibalizing. This is a setup for warmer climates with no heat in the tank or on the fuel lines. Here's the check list:

1 tank, you've already got that, but I used an on-deck boat tank and threaded a hose barb into it for the return.

Internet:
Pollack 6 port valve
thermostat

Auto Parts Store:
1 25' roll of 3/8"*fuel line
1 25' roll of 5/16"*fuel line
1 fuse holder w/ 25A fuse
2 rolls of primary wire
after market temp*gauge
illuminated switch
Brass Diverter valve $41
Autolite #1110 glow plug
2 bolts and lock nuts for 6 port valve
20 hose clamps (you'll need every last one)

Radio Shack:
1 DPDT switch
1 12v*relay rated at 15A or more

brass plumbing connectors (big hardware store):
3 3/8" NPT female to female connector
2 3/8" NPT nipples
2 3/8" to 1/8" reducers (one of these is for the temp sensor, so buy that first and then get a reducer that fits)
8 5/16" hose barbs 3/8" MPT
4 3/8" hose barbs 3/8" MPT
1 3/8"*elbow
1 3/8" plug

I made a glow plug heater similar to this one:
http://smallglowplugheater.blogspot.com//

I adapted the stock fuel hose on the main tank (veggie oil) to the 3/8" fuel line and ran that to engine compartment. I used the hose barbs and double females to make connection to get the fuel lines for the secondary diesel tank through the floor of the trunk. I connected the supply from the second tank to the steel line that used to be the main tank supply line, and ran a 5/16" line for the return.
Under the hood the lines for the second tank go strait onto the 6 port valve. The supply take a little work, b/c it's a little too small, but at least it's nice and tight. The supply from the main tank goes through the straight part of a T, and into the Pollack. The foot of the T is connected to one of the three outlets from the diverter valve. One of the other outlets is attached to the main tank's return line. The third outlet is plugged. The inlet is connected to the return from the pollack valve. This lets you open the loop to purge air or switch back to D2 in the main tank.
On the other side of the pollack the supply is attached to the inline fuel heater which feeds into the stock primary filter (clear plastic). The return comes from the
the stock main filter where the cigar hose is attached.

This set up only gets the fuel up to 150ºF, so the next thing I'm going to do is put my coolant heated Vormax filter in just before the brass T.

This is the info I was looking for. Thank you very much for taking your time to write this up.

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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car)
1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine)
1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine)
1984 190D (sold and glad I did)
1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't)