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  #91  
Old 02-25-2007, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinn8it View Post
GREASYBENZ
I just realized you are in San Francisco... What single tank conversion did you have?
Currently i have the veggie components removed. Ive been using biodiesel on and off, it just has plain old diesel now.

But my buddy sold me his plantdrive single tank kit which i plan to make into a 2 tank kit using some greasecar components.

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  #92  
Old 02-25-2007, 05:36 PM
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Hey Ruben-
So you still don't have time to install that plantdrive kit yet, huh? I might buy a two tank system soon. Let me know how hard or easy it is to install the plantdrive, OK? If you get around to it! Hee heee heee.
Quinn-
The injector line heaters will only help your oil flow and atomize better. It won't hurt.
Frankie
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  #93  
Old 02-25-2007, 05:49 PM
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ill get to setting up the plantdrive kit when i get my suspension fixed.

do you still want me to install the electrotherm i have? I have it sitting here in the garage waiting to fry up some grease!
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Current:
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Previous
2004 E55 AMG
2002 C32 AMG (#2)
1995 E300
1978 300D
1987 300D
2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[
1981 300SD
1983 300SD
1987 300SDL
2002 Jetta TDI
1996 S420
1995 S500
1993 190E 2.6
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  #94  
Old 02-25-2007, 07:39 PM
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Here is a picture of the 190D injectors with unheated SVO

Here is a picture of the 190D injectors running with unheated SVO so far close to 9000 miles (if I am correct) and one of the glow plugs, (I stop wrestling with the other 4 gp after 2 knuckle cuts) if some member sees something not normal please chip in I will pull the injectors again at 15000 miles to check them against this pictures I used lacquer thinner to clean the whole body and let them air dry same for the gp.
Attached Thumbnails
Feel like slamming Lovecraft yet again?-pict3449.jpg   Feel like slamming Lovecraft yet again?-pict3458.jpg   Feel like slamming Lovecraft yet again?-pict3466.jpg  
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  #95  
Old 02-25-2007, 10:49 PM
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Lovecraft has some wonderfull tips on buying and maintaining a mercedes diesel. I'm sure many have read it, but for those that haven't it is solid

80's era Mercedes diesels are some of the best vehicles ever built, and hold the world record for longevity (2,300,000 on a 240D by a Greek taxi driver-guiness book of world records)



You can expect your engine to last 500,000 miles, with basic maintenance (regular oil changes, 2 year valve adjustments, etc) The entire vehicle is built incredibly well, and now that they are entering their status as antiques, there are some common issues that you may begin to notice.



1) Transmission - If you have an automatic transmission, they will last between 175,000 and 200,000 miles. Although these transmissions are solid, they are quirky, and often have issues that feel more serious than they actually are. Hard shifts are common, and can usually be adjusted out. Revving between shifts is also adjustable, but, often a sign that the transmission is on it's last legs. Don't ever change the transmission fluid if you have over 100,000 miles on it. More often than not, it will begin to slip.



2) Engine - often guttless and smokey, more often then not, they are easy to bring back to life. Smoke on initial start is normal, new Bosch glowplugs will help that, as will an oil stabilizer like Lucas. If it's a turbo, at least 90% of them can regain power and performance by a simple adjustment of the alda valve. Some smoke on acceleration is normal, again, adjusting the alda valve can help this. If you have smoke at a steady cruising speed, it is a sign of excessive engine wear, and thicker motor oil is the best way to buy more time. A long freeway drive is about the easiest, quickest way to smooth out a neglected engine. Low power is often a transmission issue. They start off in 2nd gear, and if the tranny doesn't kick down to 1st when needed, it will result in very sluggish acceleration. Driving in "s" around town will change your shift points, resulting in more responsive acceleration.



3) Power windows - Very common problem as these cars age. Most often, the switch itself has corrosion in it, and can be cleaned, or replaced. People use the switch panel as a drink holder, and there is almost always crud and dirt in the switch contacts. Although Mercedes charges up to $100 for replacement switches, try a wrecking yard, or Ebay for a better deal.



4) Oil leaks - These cars mark their territory, that's all there is to it. Fix a drip, and another will follow shortly. If you're frequently topping off your oil, you have a problem that needs fixing, otherwise, get used to it.



5) Maintenance - These car are cheap and easy to maintain. No carburator, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, etc. Rule #1, change your motor oil and filter often, never run out of oil or coolant.




The most common cause of engine failure is running out of motor oil, or overheating. Use good Bosch glow plugs, Delo 15/40 oil with Lucas stabilizer if needed, and adjust your valves every two years, and your Mercedes will start and run like a dream.



Other common issues;



Broken motor mounts - engine will shake your entire car, diesel engines have a lot of torque, and these mounts are often broken.



Air filter bushing broken - loud & shaky, if your air filter housing is loose and bouncing around, replace these cheap, easy bushings. If left unattended, it can pull the turbo air intake off, allowing dirt and debris to enter the engine.



Car won't shut off - So common, Mercedes has a shut off button on the engine. This is most often a vacuum issue, look for loose vacuum hoses, cracked vacuum lines. Vacuum controls the door locks, engine shut off, transmission shift, brakes, climate controller, plus a host of other functions. Something as simple as a leaking door lock valve, can cause rough shifts, and prevent your engine from shutting off.



Fuel gauge incorrect - caused by diesel sludge buildup on the tank sender...just needs cleaning.



Fuel leaking on or around injectors - Your return lines need to be replaced. Simply pull off, and push on new ones. Don't skimp, use Mercedes german rubber return lines.



Fuses - The fuse holders are copper, while often the fuse is aluminum. The result, is corrosion, and a good fuse that doesn't make contact. Test both sides of the fuse with a test light, or, in an emergency, wiggle the fuse to make contact. Best to use copper replacement fuses.



I suggest bringing the car to the condition that your comfortable with, and then relax, and get years of reliable service.

More...

The diesel Mercedes engines are famous for having long, long lives and have no problem
reaching upwards of 500,000 miles if they receive proper care.

So, here are a few things you need to know about driving your diesel:

THINGS THAT WILL KILL YOUR ENGINE:

1. Running out of motor oil. Get in the habit of checking your motor oil
every time you fill up your car. Recommended engine oil 15W/40 (our
favorite brand is DELO.) Don’t use synthetic please.
Remember: DO NOT LET YOUR CAR RUN OUT OF MOTOR OIL!!!!



2. Running out of coolant or, overheating. Pay close attention to the temp
gauge when running the air conditioning on really hot days.
In an emergency, run your heater to cool off your car.

3. Running out of fuel (veggie-oil). The gauges on these cars are famously
inaccurate, so we recommend keeping your car as close to full as
possible. With the flexibility of the Lovecraft conversion, if you’re in a
pinch, you can always put a bit of diesel in, or pull over at a 7-11 and
get a liter of veggie oil.
Por-favor: DO NOT LET YOUR CAR RUN OUT OF FUEL!!!!



About GLOW PLUGS:

Your car has glow plugs not spark plugs, so you need to start your car in a
specific way:

* Turn the key to position “2”.
* Look for the curly-q symbol (glow plug indicator) on the dash.
* When the pre-glow indicator lamp comes on, the pre-glow process
starts.
* When the pre-glow indicator goes out, the engine is ready for
starting.

Failing to wait for the glow plugs to heat up will prevent your car from starting
properly, so unless a man with a hook for a hand is hunting you, give the glow
plugs the time they need to get glowing.

Engine Oil and Filter Change:

Required every 3000/5000 miles. In the case of severe operating conditions or
heavy use mainly in city traffic or over short distances, it may be necessary to
carry out maintenance work more often.

About VEGGIE-OIL:

After a conversion, your fuel tank will be shedding sludge from years of dirty
diesel, so we recommend that you run your car on new vegetable oil for the first
600 miles.

After that, you can keep on using new oil or, if you are industrious, you can
collect your own waste oil (WVO) and filter it for use in your car. (See our
website for detailed instructions to get you started – www.lovecraftbiofuels.com)



About the VACUUM SYSTEM:
(a.k.a “My car WON”T SHUT OFF!”)

Sometimes when the vacuum system has a leak, your car will not shut off, even
when you take the key out of the ignition.
* Don’t freak out.
* Pop the hood; look for the big RED BUTTON that says, “STOP”.
* Press it.
* Bring your car in for service.

About THE CAR:
Lovecraft prides itself on bringing these beautiful old cars up to a certain
standard for new owners but, much like you, they LOVE attention. It turns
driving into an enjoyable, interactive experience.
Because it is an older car, it’s a good idea to be mindful of its inner workings.
Check the fluids, be aware of your gauges, and listen to the engine, things like
that. With a bit of regular TLC, your Lovecraft car will take you everywhere you
want to go.




I am personally for saving the environment, but they are just setting these cars up to fail. Biodiesel is cool with me, but not crappy conversions that kill these cars. They are trying to get people buying the best cars and running them into the ground. My favorite line: "Don't ever change the transmission fluid if you have over 100,000 miles on it. More often than not, it will begin to slip." Idiots.
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1983 300d Turbo (Daily Drive) -- 243,000 miles
1979 280ce AMG (Beginning extreme restoration) -- 141,410 miles
1979 Yamaha Chappy LB50 (Awating new points) -- 1411.6 miles

1981 300d Euro 4 speed -- 188,421 km -- SOLD
1979 300d Euro 4 speed (Sold to Brother) -- 257,000 miles

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  #96  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:08 AM
ForcedInduction
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The virus is spreading! Portland is going to be infected!

http://www.lovecraftbiofuels.com/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=41&func=view&id=599&catid=2
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  #97  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:13 AM
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  #98  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
i assume thats you with the petroD screenname. love the throwup pic with "the virus is spreading"

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  #99  
Old 02-28-2007, 01:28 AM
ForcedInduction
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BTW, unless you have already guessed it, I'm PetroD.

Humm, unless the ban me, I think I've found a new forum to haunt.

EDIT: If we all wanted to be real mean, we could join the forum and take down Brian Lovecraft's karma rating. Hint, hint....

Last edited by ForcedInduction; 02-28-2007 at 03:32 AM.
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  #100  
Old 04-19-2007, 05:51 PM
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Lovecrap Hippies?

They may look like it, but I can assure you these people are serious capitalistic pigs, who don't give a **** about the product they sell.

i have stopped by the place several times with questions and they were very rude!

the veggie oil conversion kit they sell is made from recycled truck parts. it looks like a child put it together for $50; then they sell the conversion for $750.
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  #101  
Old 04-19-2007, 06:10 PM
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You're not going to get any arguments here.

Check out the other copycat systems, greenbenz, veggiewheels, etc. gotta keep an eye out on those people too. They are selling cars all over the southland AND on Ebay. None of them address cold oil starts.
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  #102  
Old 04-19-2007, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diametricalbenz View Post
You're not going to get any arguments here.

None of them address cold oil starts.
What about Total cold oil opperation? this system is a joke! 110f max oil temp, and they discourage injection line heaters!

Recently on the Lovecraft forum Brian answered a question about Lovecraft being sold... He responded that he was never anything more than an employee, and that he was now going to be focusing on New Product Development. what kind of new product is he going to develop? does he need extra time to surf the web for products others are already selling? Does Davco know he is just installing their product and calling it his own?
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  #103  
Old 04-19-2007, 09:25 PM
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I must be really out of it with my posting and all. It's been a long week with work.

I was trying to get at the point that he was not going to get any opposition about how crappy lovecraft is.

So it is true, 110F heat via the LC system only? And with 65-75F ambient temperatures?

The Davco 234 filters were designed for heating biodiesel and were somehow modified for higher flow with WVO. I saw on the LC site that they spent that R&D money on engraving, not engineering Williams Sonoma heat exchangers which looked way too small for adequately heating 20 gallons of oil at all times.
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  #104  
Old 04-19-2007, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diametricalbenz View Post
So it is true, 110F heat via the LC system only? And with 65-75F ambient temperatures?
If you want to check it out first hand I know where you can buy a slightly used Lovecraft conversion, in a couple of weeks.... Or just take my word on it... Its very true... It kinda has me pissed off, i was a supporter of this system. these guys are straight out crooks!
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  #105  
Old 04-19-2007, 10:39 PM
ForcedInduction
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Those that have been banned from their forums should try again.

They banned my IP address from their website and it's now allowing me back in.

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