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  #16  
Old 07-02-2007, 02:07 PM
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Location: NY
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It's usually a good idea to start up a new WVO system with diesel fuel in the WVO tank instead of WVO. Dyed diesel fuel (home heating oil) is prefered or 80% dyed kerosene/10% de-watered/filtered WVO. After you get the bugs out, then top off the WVO tank with WVO.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY
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  #17  
Old 07-02-2007, 02:14 PM
grindMARC's Avatar
Mersoydes 300SDL
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan View Post
You shouldn't need an extra fuel pump.
Agreed.

You are most likely pulling in air. Check ALL connections on the VO side carefully. Then check them again. Remember, not too tight!

Also check so see how well the VO fuel filter is tight on the housing. You don't have an inline filter on the VO side do you?

The clear hose will help, but you could also put in an inline filter without the filter element to achieve nearly the same thing.

Use the Attach Files button to add you pics.
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2007, 06:35 PM
a2t a2t is offline
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Dan - your partial looped return sounds awesome.

Post up some pics please.
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2007, 08:02 PM
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as far as posting your photos, I would get a photobucket account. It's super easy. Or feel free to email them to me and I will post them!
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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:46 PM
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OK-as promised, sexy pics of my Greasecar system.



This is an overall shot from the passenger side.



This is the pex line, T, and grease filter.




This is valve A. It's kinda buried. The line from the diesel filter comes into the top, the line from the veg comes into the right, and the line to the IP comes out of the left.




This is Valve B. The top line is return to diesel tank, the right goes to the banjo fitting on the diesel filter, and the left goes to the T on the grease side.



This is a shot of the lines going into the IP and the lines coming off the diesel filter. I think there is supposed to be a clear filter right before the IP, but my car didn't come with one when I bought it.

Is that clear filter something I can get at a local parts place-sure would help seeing what's going, or not going, on!

Will also try the Kerosene mix. Is that supposed to be 90% and 10% or is there another ingredient?

Thanks for looking!
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  #21  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:59 PM
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in my system, and in my book (rather old) it shows the fuel filter should be before the solenoid. it looks like you have it otherwise... could you manage a more zoomed out picture?


I think the easiest thing for you to do right now (esp since it's already dark) would be to open up microsoft paint and draw us a diagram with flow arrows. It doesn't look like you're plummed right. I say this because pics #1 and #2 you have the solenoid labeled B but that looks like your supply line running to it. in my book B is the return solenoid.
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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.
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  #22  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:10 PM
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I edited your picture with some questions



please confirm that the line marked supply is your wvo line from the tank, and that the line marked looped return is in fact your looped return.

for A, B and C, please tell me the destination of each hose.
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:28 PM
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Check connections around the switch

I believe you mentioned the electrical was alright, but anyway here is my 2 cents. I had problem with greasecar kit as well. It would pull oil fine but wouldn't purge. My problem was a poor electrical connection. The little fold-over one-wire-to-two-wire connectors used behind the switch are crap! Solder these connections and use shrink tubing to cover them. I've had no problems since doing this. Also, I bought a Mity-vac to pull air out of system when I change any filters (especially diesel filter) to speed up the process. Hook up Mity-vac to the end of the cigar hose until fuel comes out with few air bubbles, reconnect cigar hose and be on your way. Hope this helps.
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  #24  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:43 PM
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SJ- A is going to valve A on the right (NC?) side.

B comes off the banjo fitting on the diesel filter.

C goes to the return line to the diesel tank

supply line is indeed the supply line from VO tank

what you marked looped return actually is the inlet to the VO filter. It wraps around to the 90 degree fitting that is at the right edge of the photo.

All filters come before the solenoids. I will take expanded view photo in the daylight and label entire system. I think it's plumbing or electrical. Otherwise, how could the engine keep running? (Valve A would shut off the diesel and with no flow from the VO tank, how would the engine get fuel?)
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  #25  
Old 07-03-2007, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudebutler View Post
...Dan-that return loop sounds good. Are the "T's" available at auto supply stores?
The "T"s are are available in various forms. You can get a simple "T" at an autoparts store (try Napa), or Home Depot. I use 1/8" brass plumbing connectors (available at Home Depot), with fuel nozzels screwed in. This way there is a bit more of a "chamber", so there is more space for air to escape. I'm not sure if this makes sense, or is necessary, or not, but it seems to be working good.
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1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine
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  #26  
Old 07-03-2007, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t View Post
Dan - your partial looped return sounds awesome.

Post up some pics please.
I'll try to get around to it... if it ever stops raining! Here in Central Texas, we have been deluged for weeks with rain and flooding. I feel like I'm living on the friggin' Northwest Coast!
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1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine
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  #27  
Old 07-03-2007, 11:36 AM
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Where that orange hose (supply) connects just before T for the looped return -- is there a double barbed fitting under there? What connects those two hoses together?
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  #28  
Old 07-03-2007, 11:53 AM
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The black line between the pex and the T is 5/16 fuel line secured with a hose clamp, if that's the spot you're talking about.

Here is a photo of the whole system-red arrows are diesel flow, green is VO. Double arrow is line to IP.





See anything wrong?
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  #29  
Old 07-03-2007, 01:24 PM
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So there is no fitting connecting that 5/16 fuel line to the orange pex line? Its just hose inside hose with a clamp on it? That right there is your problem.

I strongly suggest you get a T fitting so that you can connect that pex line directly to the T. One Lowes near me stocks a wide variety of T fittings that have different size barbed ends on them.
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  #30  
Old 07-03-2007, 03:07 PM
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I thought that looked bad, but it is according to installation instructions. I will stop into Lowe's and get a T like you described.

Also, Sgt John, you had asked about the line in the VO tank. It is completely submerged. It is underneath the coil and they ran it clear to the other side of the tank so you can actually see the end of it when you remove the tank cap.

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