I am currently running a blend in a 87 124. It has worked fine for almost 10K miles. With the exception of several fuel filters! I have just purchased a 98 W210 TD. I want to do it right and not endanger the car. I am considering an Elsbett one tank, a two tank or a plantdrive one tank with more heat and hi pop injectors added. What do you WVO folks think would be the best route? I think Plantdrive would be the cheapest, two tank (Greasecar?) the most expensive (with professional install) and the Elsbett (self installed) somewhere in the middle. Advice is appreciated.

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Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

Cal, I bought a 95 mechanical type as I *thought* the alter digital/electroic ones would be tempermental... if I may do an add on to your post.....

Are there any issues using the "newer" electronic IP with wvo??

What part of your post does the *WARNING* refer to?

Two-tank, two-tank, two-tank. Golden Fuel Systems has successfully converted a '99 model, so you might want to check out their website. If you're gonna do it, do it right -- and one tank isn't it, even in warm climates. I feel like that's pretty well-documented good advice.

I hope to do a two-tank at some point with my '98 also -- just no time or money budgeted for the project yet. For now, it's running like a champ on B99.

Cheers, John

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'98 E300TD (W210) | Sold 6/09 with 205k and counting
'04 VW Touareg V10TDI

I have converted my F250 with the two tank plantdrive system and driven about 15k miles on WVO without problems. I'll probably use the Greasecar system for my 240D because they make a round tank that fits in the spare tire well. The plantdrive appears less expensive because the buyer purchases fuel line, hoses, 2nd tank, and wire at their local parts store. As for tanks, check Cabela's. The Moeller tanks are priced competitively.

The key to using WVO is filtering to 1 micron or less, no water in WVO, and heating the WVO to reduce its viscosity.

John

__________________
Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

The warning was because some members don't like to see WVO related questions on the diesel board.

I am beginning to think that a plantdrive one tank with the hi pop pressure injectors may be the simplest route for me. I would add a vegtherm for more/quicker heat. What are your concerns with the one tank? Starts on cold veggie? I thought the higher pop pressure injectors were better at atomizing veggie and the initial start on cool/cold veggie was not as big a problem. If I went the two tank I would also need it installed. I can wrench the easy stuff but this is something I wouldn't want to screw up.

Thanks for the advice so far, keep it coming!

__________________

Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

You need to do alot more research if you think you can run a one tank system in VA. How do you intend to start the car between October and March? The VO sitting in the fuel lines, filter and injector pump will not move. Either move down South or start research a two-tank approach.

Thats a good reminder, last winter I blended but I lived in SC. I suppose I could use a blend with a much smaller percentage of WVO... or as you suggest check out a two tank approach. Maybe a two tank is the way to go. I was hoping to avoid the extra tank and complexity. But it is probably best for the car as well. Thanks

__________________

Muleears
'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
'04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K
'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
'67 250S 95K
'86 300SDL
'87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P.
'98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K
'02 S420, 164K
'01 Prius 138K

2 tank without question. Its not just fuel in lines. Its when cold VO squirts into cylinders, hits walls, seeps past cold rings, and mixes with engine oil. Needless to say, VO is not a good engine lubricant!

I used Frybrid system, which was expensive but if you priced the components 1 by 1, you'd pay about the same to peice it together.

Of special interest to me with Frybrid was :

1. nice tank with encapsulated heater (not a dropped in radiator) heats only oil its using, not whole tank - makes for quick switch overs.

2. bulletproof hydraforce valves (2 seperate 3 way, ensures no mixing veg oil back to D2 tank!)

3. very efficient and simple heated filter head - basically custom block mounted to VW oil cooler.

4. Nifty computer controller automatically switches over, so I can eat a burger, talk on cell phone, and not worry about forgetting. Surprised how useful this is.

Have 8k miles so far on my 87 300D, the engine could not be happier.

The cons - COST! $1700. Long (2 month) wait for kit. Off/On customer support.

Who on here has problems with good 2 tank WVO kit? Its borderline disgusting to continue reliance on OPEC when proven alternatives (ie, GOOD 2 TANK KITS, not single tank!) are out there.

Anyways, you can read up on my conversion here -

http://www.gruvenparts.com/Vegie%20Benz/veggie%20benz.htm

__________________
Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

Is the computer a VO controller? If so, the price really isn't THAT bad. The VO Controller retails for $499. $1200 is only about $400 over the price of my DIY/piece meal 2-tank system.

How was the frybrid kit with the various hose connectors? I think I must of wasted a dozen hours going back and forth to McMaster for different fittings.

Frybrid kit was pretty good with connectors. Few things pissed me off -

All the fuel tstat, LP, IP, main filter housing barbs were 5/16 but the Frybrid valves are all 3/8 and all they supply you with is 3/8 hose. I got a few "just tighten hose clamps tighter" responses before I went and got proper 5/16 hosing. Only problem with that, ofcourse, is stretching 5/16 hose over their 3/8 hydraforce valves. What they *should* of done is supply 3/8-5/16 adapters for valves. They acted put out by that suggestion, said its different for every vehicle how can they design for every vehicle? Easy, supply little adapters...

Other than that, all fittings were decent. I hate NPT threads and had some issues with coolant leaks on their terminating fittings at 1st but all thats fine now. Would have like to see standard threads, custom terminating fittings but that would drive cost up.

The VO controller is simple circuit board but Im sure they had to have it made specially. Cant see paying $500 for one of those but whatver. It works and works well!

Only problem I seem to have at moment is loosing prime on Dino - engine stalls on switch back when its really hot. Sure its an air leak on the D2 side (prob due to stretch hose!).

8k miles and counting.

__________________
Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

Two tank - two tank - two tank

In orderof my preference using my non-scientific research:

1. Frybrid - with cavets listed above in a2t's posts.

1. Vegistroke - if you own a Ford PSD.




2. & 3. maybe interchangeable:
Plant Drive - two tank
Grease car with plate heater.

4. Fossil Free Fuel ONLY because I haven't seen pictures of their system.









5. Golden Fuels BECAUSE I have seen pictures of his system AND because of a narrative given in the eBay listing when he was trying to sell his Jeep
Liberty CRD.

There are some other knock off systems that I wouldn't bother with.

__________________
.

1983 Mercedes 300SD [OMG - What Have I Done!] Just Aquired - Brake job under way. Then she will be greased!

2006 Jeep Liberty Limited [2.8L CRD - a noisy little Italian, just like my wife]

2006 Toyota Sienna [The Wuss-Moblie] My daily driver... Hey, it's a company car, I can't help it.

My dad always said, "Son, you may only look like a fool, but when you open your mouth, you remove all doubt."

Can you elaborate or post a link, please? I've been impressed with the GFS folks I have met, so I'd like to know more.

Cheers, John

__________________
'98 E300TD (W210) | Sold 6/09 with 205k and counting
'04 VW Touareg V10TDI

The eBay auction is long over, but the owner of GFS listed his Libby CRD, and stated it was on it's SECOND engine because he failed to change his engine oil at 3000 miles, and the first engine lost lubrication due to lube oil polymerization. That speaks volumes about the quality of the kit -- basically it doesn't heat the oil, and it gets washed past the rings without burning.

Personally I think it's stupid to run a modern common-rail engine on WVO, but if you are going to do it, do it knowing the consequences.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Only if you convert it and/or process oil incorrectly. The latter is just as true for BioD. Plenty of ppl running 100's of thousands of miles on WVO without issue. Follow simple rules and there wont be any problems. Whats stupid is continuing to fund the corrupt oil industry when viable domestic alternatives exist.

__________________
Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !