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  #1  
Old 07-06-2007, 11:09 AM
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Location: NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t View Post
Frybrid kit was pretty good with connectors. Few things pissed me off -

All the fuel tstat, LP, IP, main filter housing barbs were 5/16 but the Frybrid valves are all 3/8 and all they supply you with is 3/8 hose. I got a few "just tighten hose clamps tighter" responses before I went and got proper 5/16 hosing. Only problem with that, ofcourse, is stretching 5/16 hose over their 3/8 hydraforce valves. What they *should* of done is supply 3/8-5/16 adapters for valves. They acted put out by that suggestion, said its different for every vehicle how can they design for every vehicle? Easy, supply little adapters....

3/8" is the right size hose for those hose barbs. You cut the clear hard hoses off before the barb leaving a stub of the old hose still on the barb. The 3/8" hose fits neatly over the stub.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2007, 11:14 AM
grindMARC's Avatar
Mersoydes 300SDL
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Trenton, NJ
Posts: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
3/8" is the right size hose for those hose barbs. You cut the clear hard hoses off before the barb leaving a stub of the old hose still on the barb. The 3/8" hose fits neatly over the stub.
Ha, the greasecar approach! Personally, this seems really sketchy to me, but there are alot of installations done this way. Greasecar suggests you leave alot more than a "stub" of hose. In fact, they suggest you insert the entire length of the hose inside the larger hose. There's a thread on their first page of their forums about this.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2007, 01:34 PM
muleears's Avatar
Old MB Driver
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Windsor, VA
Posts: 1,435
FFF looks kind of pricey, $3K +install for a two tank? I can't swing that. Its 30% of what I paid for the car More than I paid for my 124 I think it would take a long time to pay for itself. Maybe if I moved it car to car...
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'07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD
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'10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter
'02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again
'97 E300 Diesel Son's DD
'61 VERY tolerant wife

Hampton Roads, VA USA

Gone but not forgotten:
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2007, 03:01 PM
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Location: NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grindMARC View Post
Ha, the greasecar approach! Personally, this seems really sketchy to me, but there are alot of installations done this way. Greasecar suggests you leave alot more than a "stub" of hose. In fact, they suggest you insert the entire length of the hose inside the larger hose. There's a thread on their first page of their forums about this.
A very common problem with not leaving a stub is damaging the barb while removing the hard tubing and creating a permanent slow leak.
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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2007, 06:09 PM
a2t a2t is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 941
Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
3/8" is the right size hose for those hose barbs. You cut the clear hard hoses off before the barb leaving a stub of the old hose still on the barb. The 3/8" hose fits neatly over the stub.
Not on my 87 300D it didnt. The OD of the clear hose is about .220". So, what you get is a 3/8 inner diameter hose going over a .220" outer diameter hose. We dont even need math to know that aint gonna work, esp pulling 14 in Hg.

Maybe my 87 300D is not the "norm". But there are no clear hoses associated with the whole dino thermostat housing. Those are all 5/16. And I just repl that from dealer, 5/16. 3/8 must be for 123 or something.
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